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           Randy's Climbing Log           
Date Location Route Type # Pitches Lead Follow
Oct-77 Harmels Solo crack w/ Doug S., I bought some used Vasque boots from Doug that were already on their 3rd resole. At night I intently studied Royal Robbins' Basic Rockcraft. Theme song from my introduction to climbing... Crosby, Stills, Nash "Wooden Ships" played over and over in my head... Horror grips us as we watch you die, All we can do is echo your anguished cries, Stare as all human feelings die, We are leaving - you don't need us... Trad 1 5.5
Oct-77 Harmels Solo crack w/ Doug, climbed this several times Trad 3 5.5
Oct-77 Harmels Kindergarten Crack /w Doug Trad 1 5.5
Oct-77 Harmels Aphrodite w/ Doug (climbed many many many times during 77, 78, and 79) Trad 5 5.7
Oct-77 Harmels Solo Crack w/ Eric Trad 1 5.5
May-78 Harmels Tourist Attraction w/ Doug (several times). Around this time, I bought my first pair of Royal Robbins Trad 3 5.5
May-78 Harmels Tourist Attraction free solo. After I finished the climb, Thor and his partner climbed it. Later, I climbed it again and recovered a biner Thor had left. Trad 2 5.5
May-78 Harmels Solo Crack free solo Trad 1 5.5
May-78 Harmels Zig Zag w/ ? Trad 1 5.9
May-78 Harmels Attempted Left Hand Crack, but Doug took a whipper and we bagged it. Trad 1
Oct-78 Taylor Canyon Climbed an A2 overhanging thin crack w/ Doug in the light snow. The crack was about 100 degrees overhung and about 70' long Aid 1 A2
Jun-79 Eldorado C'est La Morte w/ John Trad 1 5.9
Jun-79 Eldorado West Arete w/ John Trad 2 5.8
Jun-79 Eldorado Werk Supp w/ John. At the crux of the 2nd pitch, I never fell; but I had to hang off of my hand jam two times with both feet dangling in the air looking at a big pendulum, before I could swing my right leg up to a smear. This scarred me big time and it was the last climb I did for a long long time. Trad 2 5.9
Jul-84 Wisconsin Devil's Lake w/ Corky and Reed, top ropped several easy climbs. Reed's Bowline knot wasn't tied properly and came untied when he was about 1/2 way up one of the climbs (why was he using a Bowline anyway?). Luckily, he was able to down climb and never had to weight the rope. Trad 2 5.8
Jun-99 Paradise 6/2/1999 to 11/00, Thrillseekers, mostly Toprope 5.8-5.10, replaced my old Swami belt with a Metolius harness, bought a new locking biner, and bought new Boreal Aces. Gym
2000/04/19 Mission Cliffs w/ a partner I met at the Gym Gym 6 5.10
2000/08/30 Paradise w/ Belen Gym 5 5.9
2000/12/23 RocknJamin w/ Belen toprope (tr) 510 roof in my Nike trail shoes, 2 rests Gym 1 5.10
2000/12/27 Thrillseekers Toprope 3 510, couldn't start 1 Toprope 510, Toprope 59Lead(L) 2 59+s, got rope rapped around mew/ Belen Gym 6 5.9+ 5.10
2000/12/29 RocknJamin w/ Belen tr flash 510 roof, 1/2 way 511-L 58, 59 w/ rest, 510 w/ 2 rests (1 move short of top) 5 foot fall pulled Belen into wall she needs to stand by wall. Lead 59 only made 5 moves Gym 6 5.9 5.10
2001/01/21 Thrillseekers w/ Belen Toprope 58, 59, 510, lead flash 57, lead 59+ Gym 5 5.9+ 5.10
2001/01/22 Thrillseekers bouldering 512+ move Gym
2001/01/25 Paradise w/ Belen Gym
2001/02/14 Thrillseekers bouldering new shoes Boreal Diablos $108 Gym
2001/02/19 Thrillseekers w/ Belen , f=flash Toprope 510, Lead 59+ 59+ tried 2 510s, but only got 2 clips, weak fingers Gym 5 5.9+ 5.10
2001/02/21 RocknJamin w/ Belen Toprope 510, 510+ tried 511- roof, Lead 58, 58 58 good clips no mistakes, weak finger strength Gym 6 5.8 5.10d
2001/03/06 RocknJamin clinic w/ Belen & Mia - slow, frozen hand, completely straight arms, lunges, 1arm pull ups, full extension pull ups, 3 climbs w/ equal Lead rests, speed climbs Gym 6 5.10
2001/03/08 Thrillseekers w/ Kermi Toprope 510, 510 1/2-510+ 59, 59 Gym 5 5.10
Mar-01 Breck Rec. Center w/ Belen Gym 6 5.10
2001/03/12 Thrillseekers w/ Belen, Toprope 59, 59 1/2-510, 510, Lead 59-w/-1-rest 510-w/-1-rest 59-w/-1-rest Gym 7 5.10
2001/03/15 Thrillseekers w/Belen Lead the white 59 roof clean, Lead new 59 w/ 1 rest-I had been too scared before, Toprope 510 F(flash) 59 Gym 4 5.9 5.10
2001/03/21 Thrillseekers bouldering - 15 move V1 Gym
2001/03/28 Thrillseekers bouldering 10 move v1 Gym
2001/03/31 Thrillseekers w/ George & John, Toprope 510 59+ 510 511-, 4 moves on 512-, did 18 moves on boulder Gym 5 5.11a
2001/04/01 Golden Cliffs w/ Belen Ali Morgan, Lead Windy Days 58 used 3 pieces of pro, Toprope left side of windy city. This was the 1st time I used my Galaxy rope. Sport 1 5.8
2001/04/02 RocknJamin w/ Belen Toprope 59, 59, 510, Lead 59, 510- on roof w/ 2 rests Gym 5 5.9 5.10
2001/04/05 Thrillseekers w/ Kermi & Belen Toprope 58, 59, 510, 511-, Lead w/ fall new 59, Lead 59, 57, Gym 7 5.9 5.11a
2001/04/08 Needles On our way back to Denver from Rapid City, I attempted Lander Turkey Shoot 5.6 on Inner Outlet w/ Belen, but got way off route and ended up 4 bolts up a route with 5.9 moves and heading to possible 5.10. This being one of my first leads in years, I definitely wasn't prepared for this yet. I was able to down climb it ok. By the time we re-grouped it was cold and we called it quits. Sport 1 5.9
2001/04/11 Thrillseekers bouldering, Gym
2001/04/12 Thrillseekers w/ Kermi, Toprope 6x57 3x58 3x59, 510 511- Gym 14 5.11a
2001/04/14 Golden Cliffs w/ The Gas Man, 5.8 Sport 1 5.8
2001/04/14 Golden Cliffs 5.8 sport route Sport 1 5.8
2001/04/14 Golden Cliffs 5.9, I fell on 59 need to focus more on feet Sport 1 5.9
2001/04/18 Golden Cliffs w/ Bill, Lead Thelma Sport 1 5.7
2001/04/18 Golden Cliffs Louise Sport 1 5.8
2001/04/18 Golden Cliffs Offline Sport 1 5.8
2001/04/18 Golden Cliffs Oranges Limes and Tangerines, need more practice at anchor Sport 1 5.8
2001/04/19 Thrillseekers w/ Belen & Kermi, Toprope 58, 58 with closed eyes, Lead 57 59, 59, I zclipped!!!, I need to always feel the knot when I clip Gym 5 5.9 5.8
2001/04/25 South Plate w/ The Gas Man & Bill - Squat Rock, 58 sport route on the left side of Squat Sport 1 5.8
2001/04/25 South Plate 5.8 sport face route on the left side of Squat, a couple of small wires too. Sport 1 5.8
2001/04/25 South Plate Sticky Fingers Sport 1 5.9+
2001/04/25 South Plate Lichen it or not - I didn't use my feet in the crack correctly! This was a brute feast. Trad 1 5.9
2001/04/30 South Plate Squat Rock w/ The Gas Man and Bill, Lichen IT or Not, still struggle on this right leaning hand crack Trad 1 5.9
2001/04/30 South Plate Kirks Corner Trad 1 5.9+
2001/04/30 South Plate Smut Puppy, 5.11a face climb to the right of Kirks. Had to grab a draw - tough! Sport 1 5.11a
2001/05/05 Clear Creek Highwire w/ d, d lead 59 Sport 1 5.9
2001/05/05 Clear Creek Highwire w/ d, d lead two pitch 59 Sport 2 5.9
2001/05/08 RocknJamin w/ The Gas Man.tr 59, 510, 510 lead 59, 510 Gym 5 5.10 5.10
2001/05/11 RocknJamin bouldering v0 v1 v2 - hurt shoulder Gym
2001/05/17 Yosemite w/ The Gas Man, Knob Hill - 5.7, The Gas Man and I both thought it was going to be a long trip when I couldn't even get off the ground on the slab, finally changed my shoes and made it. Trad 1 5.7
2001/05/17 Yosemite Knob Hill - Movin' to Montana Trad 1 5.8
2001/05/17 Yosemite Sunny Beach - Jam Crack Trad 2 5.9
2001/05/18 Yosemite Manure Pile Buttress - After Seven. On the 3rd pitch, I couldn't pull out two cams and flagged a guy - Scott - on the climb beside us for help. He buzzed (pendulum) over and tried without success. I finished the pitch, and The Gas Man down climbed (after much consternation) and pulled the cams out in about 3 minutes. At the top of the climb we ran into Scott again who turned out to be one of the Yosemite guides. Trad 6 5.7
2001/05/19 Yosemite Higher Cathedral - Braille Book, major 2000ft steep approach, started at 7:30am, The Gas Man's sent another party to the Cathedral spire, I watched them climb across from us, TGM's lead on the flaring chimney was delicate, he could have used the #4 for sure, my feet fried at 80F (100F on the rock?), we only took 1 quart of water between us and were extremely parched by the last pitch, 2 Brits followed us, I took a fall at a bulge crux on the 2nd pitch, great exposure on p4 traverse and last pitch of chicken heads, I did a spectacular lead on the last 4th class section!, back to car at 6:30pm. Trad 5 5.8
2001/05/19 Yosemite On a hike up to the Nose we met Todd Skinner and his wife on the trail. We chatted for a while, and he talked about his project to free a route on the Salathe. He wanted me to help on the project. Nice guy!
2001/05/27 RocknJamin w/ Belen Toprope 59, 510, 510 Lead 59, 59 (w/ 3 rests) Gym 5 5.9 5.10
2001/06/01 Clear Creek Clear Creek - red wall w/ d & Bill The Gas Man lead sport 59, 510a 510b - I need to get quicker at top anchor Sport 3 5.10b
2001/06/08 Boulder Canyon Boulder Canyon Sport Park w/ The Gas Man 58, 59, 59, we had to walk across a "5.12" fallen tree to get across the raging steam. Sport 4 5.9
2001/06/13 Thrillseekers w/ Shaun Lead 57, 59, 59, 58, 57, 57, 58, 58, 59, 59 Gym 10 5.9
2001/06/15 Thrillseekers w/ Belen Lead 57 59 58, 58, 59 Gym 5 5.9
37423 Breck Rec. Center w/ Belen gym 6 5.10
2001/06/18 Thrillseekers w/ Belen Lead 57, 58, 58, 59, 59 Toprope 511 practiced rappel w/ Belen her 1st Gym 6 5.9 5.11a
2001/06/27 Golden Cliffs w/ Belen Lead Thelma 57 offline 58 Toprope Louise 58 Sport 3 5.8 5.8
2001/07/11 Thrillseekers w/ Belen Lead 58, 59, 57, 58 Toprope 59, 510 Gym 6 5.9 5.10
2001/07/14 Golden Cliffs w/ The Gas Man (Follow) 59, 510 bimbo in limbo 510 Sport 3 5.10
2001/07/16 Thrillseekers w/ Belen Lead 59 58, 59 58, 59 1/2 of new 510, Toprope 59 Gym 7 5.9 5.9
2001/07/23 Thrillseekers w/ Belen Toprope 59, 59 Lead 58, 59, 59 1/2 510 58 Gym 7 5.9 5.9
2001/08/02 Golden Cliffs w/ Belen Lead new route west end of overhang area - Ledges 58, Lead offline 58 Toprope 58 west most arete of overhang area Sport 3 5.8 5.8
2001/08/12 Clear Creek Clear Creek w/ TGM Cat's Slab Follow 510a 510b, Wall of the 90s Follow 510c Little Kitten (bulgy) Sport 3 5.10c
2001/08/26 Golden Cliffs w/ Belen 57, 57, 58 56 Sport 4 5.8
2001/09/03 RocknJamin w/ Belen 59 58, 59 58, 58 Gym 5 5.9
2001/09/08 Thrillseekers w/ Belen 57 59, 59 59 58, 58 Gym 6 5.9
2001/09/09 Golden Cliffs w/ Billy & The Gas Man Lead 1st 510b outdoor sport route 58, 59, 510b, Follow 59 58 Trad crack Sport 6 5.10b 5.10b
2001/09/13 Thrillseekers w/ Kermi Toprope 510, 510 3/4 511 59, 59 59 Gym 6 5.10
2001/09/17 Thrillseekers w/ Belen Lead 58, 59, 59 58 Toprope 1/2 510 Gym 5 5.9
2001/09/23 South Plate w/ The Gas Man, buck snort slab 58 57 510b Trad 3 5.10b
2001/09/24 Thrillseekers w/ Belen Lead 58, 59, 59 59 58 Project 510- Gym 6 5.9
2001/10/01 Thrillseekers w/ Belen Lead 59, 59 59, 59 58 Slogged (S) 510- Gym 6 5.9
2001/10/05 Thrillseekers Bouldering Gym
2001/10/07 Clear Creek Clear Creek Highwire w/ The Gas Man Follow 59, 59 10c Sport 3 5.10c
2001/10/08 RocknJamin w/ Belen Toprope 510+ L59, SL 510- 510- 59 Gym 5 5.9 5.10d
2001/10/18 Harmels Attempted Aphrodite w/ Belen, but were way off route and ended up having to down climb some 5.8 moves to retreat. Trad 1 5.8
2001/10/18 Harmels Tourist Attraction w/ Belen Trad 1 5.5
2001/10/19 Cement Creek w/ Steve and Belen Sport 1 5.8
2001/10/19 Cement Creek Attempted to lead, but chickened out at the crux near the top. Steve finished it off. Sport 1 5.9
2002/10/19 Cement Creek Topropped a 5.10c, had to hang several times. Sport 1 5.10c
2001/10/21 Clear Creek Clear Creek w/ The Gas Man, Follow 510, 510 510d (peoples choice 2 pitch) 510, 510b Sport 5 5.10d
2001/10/25 Joshua Tree w/ Bill & The Gas Man, 57+ Tiptoe on Trash Can Sport 1 5.7+
2001/10/25 Joshua Tree w/ Bill & The Gas Man, 57 Doublecross crack Trad 1 5.7
2001/10/26 Joshua Tree Breakfast of Champions on gastro dome w/ The Gas Man Trad 1 5.9
2001/10/26 Joshua Tree Solid Gold on Astro Dome Sport 1 5.10b
2001/10/26 Joshua Tree Echo Rock - Double Dip w/ Billy Trad 1 5.6+
2001/10/27 Joshua Tree dapple mare Trad 3 5.8
2001/10/27 Joshua Tree sail away - hidden valley Trad 1 5.8
2001/10/27 Joshua Tree Tiptoe on Trash Can Sport 1 5.7+
2001/10/28 Joshua Tree Toe Jam hidden valley camp ground Trad 1 5.7
2001/11/02 Thrillseekers bouldering Gym
2001/11/05 Thrillseekers w/ Belen SL 59, 59 59, 59 59 58 Gym 6 5.9
2001/11/08 Thrillseekers w/ Lorenzo & Kristina, Toprope 510, 510 SL 59 bouldering Gym 3 5.9 5.10
2001/11/11 Paradise w/ Morgan & ail, bouldering Gym
2001/11/19 Thrillseekers w/ Belen Toprope 58, 58 SL 59 58, 59+ 58, 58, 59 Gym 8 5.9+ 5.8
2001/11/20 Thrillseekers w/ Brian P. Toprope 510+, slf (sport lead flash) 510, sl 59, 59 59 Gym 5 5.10 5.10d
2001/11/21 Thrillseekers w/ Belen & Kermi, Toprope 59 sl 59, 510, 510 59, 59 Gym 6 5.9 5.10
2001/11/27 Paradise w/ Brian P. & his friend, Toprope 59, 510, 510 59 58, 58 58 Gym 7 5.10
2001/11/29 Thrillseekers w/ Belen, Toprope 510 sl 510, 510 59, 59 59, 57 Gym 7 5.10 5.10
2001/12/31 Thrillseekers w/ Belen, Toprope 59, 59, 510, 510 510, sl 59, 59 Gym 7 5.9 5.10
2002/01/03 RocknJamin w/ Belen, Toprope 510 511 510, sl 510 59, 59 59 Gym 7 5.10 5.11
2002/01/07 Thrillseekers w/ Belen, Toprope 510, 510 510, 510 510, sl 510 59 Gym 7 5.10 5.10
2002/01/11 Thrillseekers w/ Bill, Toprope 510 59 58 sl 59, 59 59+ Gym 6 5.9+ 5.10
2002/01/31 Thrillseekers w/ Belen, Toprope 59, 510, sl 59, 59+ 59, 59, 58 Gym 7 5.9+ 5.10
2002/02/05 D's Garage boulder w/ The Gas Man in his garage Gym
2002/02/11 Thrillseekers b v1, sl 510 59, 59 58, w/ Zack Gym 4 5.10
2002/02/11 Thrillseekers w/ Belen Toprope 59, 510, 510 sl 59, 59, 510 Gym 6 5.10 5.10
2002/02/18 Golden Cliffs w/ Bill, Killians Dead Trad 1 5.6
2002/02/18 Golden Cliffs Politicians, Priests and Bodybags Trad 1 5.10a
2002/02/18 Golden Cliffs Golden Cliffs, Lemons limes & tangerines Sport 1 5.8
2002/02/18 Thrillseekers w/ Zach boulder v1, sl 59, 59 59 Gym 3 5.9
2002/02/22 Clear Creek Clear Creek w/ The Gas Man sl 58, 59 sf 59 Sport 3 5.9 5.9
2002/02/28 Thrillseekers w/ Belen Toprope 59, 510, 510 sl 59, 59, 510 59 Gym 7 5.10 5.10
2002/03/01 Thrillseekers w/ The Gas Man Toprope 59, 510, 510 sl 59, 59, 510 Gym 6 5.10 5.10
2002/03/07 Red Rocks w/ The Gas Man and Bill, Ultimate Man formation, run out! but easy Sport 1 5.7
2002/03/07 Red Rocks Ultimate Man ? Sport 1 5.8
2002/03/08 Red Rocks Ultimate Man ? Sport 1 5.9
2002/03/08 Red Rocks Olive Oil, top of 2nd pitch and top of 5th pitch are hanging belays, high exposure on 5th pitch through chimney, we froze our butts off in the shade and wind from the top of the 3rd pitch on, I only brought a hat, The Gas Man didn't bring anything (but he was leading it all and stayed warm and in the sun throughout the climb), Bill brought a shell, it felt like a wind-chill of 20F, we were definitely stupid not to bring shells/hats/pants, fun climb Trad 6 5.7
2002/03/09 Red Rocks Cold September Morning, tricky and committing chimney move Trad 1 5.8
2002/03/09 Red Rocks Shady Ladies, easy - just my type of lead Trad 1 5.7
2002/03/18 Thrillseekers w/ Amy Toprope 59, 510, sl 58, 59 boulder Gym 4 5.9 5.10
2002/03/25 Thrillseekers w/ Pete and tom Toprope 59, 59, sl 59, 59 58 Gym 5 5.9 5.9
2002/03/28 Paradise w/ Brian P. 59, 510, 510 59, sl 59, 510 Gym 6 5.10 5.10
2002/04/01 Thrillseekers bouldering Gym
2002/04/05 Clear Creek Clear Creek w/ The Gas Man and Bill sf red slab 59 vapor trail, 510b diamondback Sport 2 5.10b
2002/04/20 Boulder Rock Club Boulder Rock Club w/ Belen Toprope 59, 510, 510 510, 511 sl 59, 59 Gym 7 5.9 5.11
2002/04/21 South Plate w/ The Gas Man stickey fingers 59+, lichen it of not 59 (right angling jam crack), kirks corner 59+ Trad-Lead slimey slit 5.7, Trad 4 5.7 5.9+
2002/05/04 South Plate Bucksnort Slab w/ Belen, Lead Classic Dihedral 5.7 Trad 1 5.7+
2002/05/05 Turkey Perch Turkey Perch w/ The Gas Man and Bill, TF Ragger Bagger 5.8, Steppen Wolf 5.9 Gobble Up 5.8 , Lead Honky Jam Ass Crack 5.7, 1st day in my new Equinox shoes. Trad 4 5.7 5.9
2002/05/09 Yosemite w/ The Gas Man and Bill, Church Bowl Layback 5.7, Bishops Terrace 5.8 Maxines 5.10, Doggie Deviations 5.9, Lead (pink point) Pine Line 5.7, Lead Munginella 5.6, Pat and Jacks Pinnacle - 5.8 2 pitch, on the night Billy left fo fly home with The Gas Man's rope. Bill called us at 6am the next morning thinking we wouldn't be able to climb without two ropes. Bill readily volunteered to reimburse us if we bought a rope, which we did; but had to wait until 9am for the climbing shop to open. While we were waiting, The Gas Man recognized one of the climbing guides - Scott, who we had run into on the Manure Pile Buttress on the last trip. Scott indicated he had just done a fun day on his own on Friday - a 13 hour ascent of the Nose. Trad 8 5.7 5.10
2002/05/09 Yosemite Swan Slab, Claudes Delight behind the Lodge, w/ Billy, we then topropped the 5.9 layback just to the left. The night before I went up to check out this (layback) climb and a guy from Camp 4 had just fallen from about 40 feet up in the crux. He didn't hit the ground, but his ankle was sore. Trad 2 5.7
2002/05/30 Smith Rock Smith Rock w/ Belen Lichen It - Fun and surprisingly long Sport 1 5.7
2002/05/30 Smith Rock Five Gallon Buckets - Fun! Sport 1 5.8
2002/05/30 Smith Rock Ginger Snap - fun! Sport 1 5.8
2002/05/30 Smith Rock Bunny Face - fun! Sport 1 5.7
2002/05/30 Smith Rock Rabbit Stew - fun! Trad 1 5.7
2002/06/03 Thrillseekers w/ Belen TR 5.9 5.9 5.10 5.10 Gym 4 5.10
2002/06/06 Clear Creek Capitalist Crag w/ The Gas Man, Lunchmoney Sport 1 5.9+
2002/06/06 Clear Creek Capitalist Crag w/ The Gas Man, Get Rich Sport 1 5.10a
2002/06/13 Clear Creek Red Slab, w/ The Gas Man, Diamond Back 5.10b Sport 1 5.10b
2002/06/13 Clear Creek Slip & Slide Sport 1 5.10d
2002/06/13 Clear Creek Vapor Tail 5.9+, crux is just past last bolt Sport 1 5.9+
2002/06/15 Breck Rec. Center Breck Rec. w/ Belen, TR 5.9 5.9 5.10, GL 5.8 5.9 5.9 Gym 6 5.9 5.10
2002/06/17 RocknJamin w/ Belen, TR 5.8 5.11a 5.11a, GL 5.9 5.9 5.10a Gym 6 5.10a 5.11a
2002/06/20 Clear Creek High Wire w/ Belen, Pony Up Sport 1 5.8
2002/06/20 Clear Creek Poker Face Sport 1 5.9
2002/06/24 Golden Cliffs Between the lines, w/ Belen, easy Sport 1 5.9
2002/06/24 Golden Cliffs Politicians, Priests, and Body Bags, should have used slings over the bulge, My first trad fall!! My #3 TCU worked great! Factor 2 fall!! w/ Belen Trad 1 5.10a
2002/06/26 Clear Creek Higher Wire, Easy Pickens w/ The Gas Man, loose rock on approach, chosey rock Sport 1 5.11a
2002/06/26 Clear Creek High Wire, Via Comatose Amigo, easier than 10c, great route, look for handhold on left side of blank face about ledge Sport 1 5.10c
2002/07/01 Golden Cliffs Natural Fact, w/ Belen, Face to Chimney to slight offwidth to chimney, Pro to 2", you can go through the cave behind the chock stone at the top for some adventure (and if you're skinny) or around the outside. http://www.climbingboulder.com/rock/db/table_mountain_aka_golden_cliffs/overhang_area/natural_fact.html Trad 1 5.7
2002/07/01 Golden Cliffs Honey, I Shrunk the Hemorrhoids, used two small cams and a large stopper Trad 1 5.7
2002/07/04 Clear Creek Catslab w/ Belen, Mr. Mistoffeles, a one rope rappel puts your feet about 5 feet off the deck on a small ledge (if you tie your stopper knots close the to end of the rope). Sport 1 5.9
2002/07/06 RMNP Sharkstooth w/ The Gas Man, Mia and her friend. 10 hour round trip from Bear Lake parking, it was raining in Denver when we left at 4:30am and didn't look like we would be able to climb, by 11:30 on the 4th pitch the clouds were threatening, we climbed the 5th pitch fast, we made it to the top at 12:20, Mia & her friend were already on top lounging and enjoying some salmon, a break in the clouds must have let some sun rays in and we too causually enjoyed the summit for 15 minues, at 12:45 all hell broke loose (marble hail, gushing rain, some lightning), the four of us did three raps to the bottom as quickly as possible w/ Mia leading the way and The Gas Man doing clean-up, we were ringing wet by then, luckily the temp didn't drop too much and we were warm, I lead pitches 2 and 5, The Gas Man lead pitches 1, 3, 4; pitch 3 is the definite crux, climbing at altitude definetly takes your breath, extremely sore shoulders from carrying the wet rope back down the trail to the car, recovered complelety after two days. Trad 5 5.6 5.6
2002/07/18 Thrill Seekers Bouldering Gym
2002/07/21 Golden Cliffs Natural Fact w/ Belen - Pro: Bring pro to 3" and slings. Details: This wide crack is right of This Ain't Naturita Pilgrim and left of The Fabulous Flying Carrs Route. There is a little of everything: offwidth, stems, and chimney. If you're not William Howard Taft, you can tunnel through the chock stone at the top and belay from above. Otherwise, go out and around the chock stone (recommended); and you can traverse right to the chain anchors on The Fabulous Flying Carrs Route. There are a few loose pebbles, and the route is shady on a hot afternoon. Trad 1 5.7
2002/07/21 Golden Cliffs Thick Crust w/ Belen - Pro: Bring pro to 2" and several slings. No fixed anchor. Hubbel's said 4", but I never used it. Details: This wide crack is right of the Big Dihedral and left of The Virus. Climb up to a "cave" and then exit with some precarious "looking" moves. This climb has some fun finger jams and stems. At the top, you can traverse right and use the bolt anchors on The Virus. http://www.climbingboulder.com/rock/db/table_mountain_aka_golden_cliffs/brown_cloud_rocks/thick_crust.html Trad 1 5.7
2002/07/26 Breck Rec. Center w/ Belen Gym 6 5.9 5.10
2002/07/28 Golden Cliffs Left-Hand Monkey Wrench w/ Belen - Start by climbing the broken crack. You will then negotiate a couple of ledges with interesting mantel moves, which may be the crux for some. When you reach the cleaner crack in the left facing dihedral, the climbing becomes slightly over-hung. The crux for me was in the middle of the dihedral. Past this point, there are a couple of easy moves to the top. As usual, watch for loose rock on top and there are plenty of wide cracks available to setup a bomber anchor for the belay. This climb would not be a good first 5.7 Trad lead, because several sections of the climb, including the cruxes, are protected with marginal small stoppers. http://www.climbingboulder.com/rock/db/table_mountain_aka_golden_cliffs/industrial_buttress/left_hand_monkey_wrench.html Trad 1 5.7
2002/08/01 Clear Creek Old Man River w/ The Gas Man Sport 1 5.10c
2002/08/01 Clear Creek Grilled Trout 5.10d Sport 1 5.10d
2002/08/01 Clear Creek Muddy Waters Sport 1 5.10a
2002/08/06 Clear Creek Skimbleshanks on Catslab w/ Bill. Fun! Sport 1 5.8
2002/08/07 Golden Cliffs Deck Chairs on the Titanic w/ Belen. Had to back off between the 3rd and 4th bolts. I didn't find a good hold when clipping the 4th bolt. I think I actually made it past the crux, but I was freaked by the run-out and not knowing if there was a reasonable hold to clip with. On toprope, I found a good hold up and left when you are standing on the nice ledge. Also, before the anchor there is a good hold left on the edge. Sport 1 5.9+
2002/08/08 Clear Creek Skimbleshanks on Catslab w/ Bill. Sport 1 5.8
2002/08/08 Clear Creek Mr. Mistoffeles Sport 1 5.9
2002/08/08 Clear Creek Rumple Teaser. We finished Mr. Mistoffeles and the sun was fading. There was already someone on the 5.10a. So, I decided to give this harder climb a try. I think Bill was a little suprised when I said I'd give it a go. It was a great climb! The cruxes were the hardest I have lead to-date, but I took my time, concentrated on relaxing (and breathing), and figured out the proper sequence of small smear/edges and a few really small holds. After I returned to the base, it was even darker and Billy thought he would just follow the route. But, then I mentioned "I think it is too difficult for you anyway". Billy, said B.S. and that he could definetly do anything I could do. So, the man who had only climbed once in the last three months and who had never lead a 5.10b set off on lead. In the fading light, Billy the man cruised the climb. I was feeling good about my first 5.10b lead, but was even more in awe about Billy's ability to put mind over matter. Sport 1 5.10b
2002/08/08 Clear Creek Rummple Teaser - continued - After Bill returned to the base, he said "it would have been a lot easier if you would have just kept quiet and let me follow it". Another side note - there was a sling with a locking carabiner attached to the cold-shuts. I should have added another biner, then rapped down to make the route ready for Bill's toprope (with two binners for the toprope). Instead, I had Bill lower me from with the single locking biner - not the safest thing to do! Sport
2002/08/11 Lumpy Ridge Pear Buttress w/ The Gas Man and Billy. The Gas Man lead all the pitches (as usual). I need to just do it and lead the easy pitches. When I was 30 feet up the 3rd pitch jam crack, Billy discovered the trail rope was stuck below; and I had to climb back down and belay him while he down climbed to free the rope. In some gusty wind, The Gas Man almost got blown off on the 5.4 2nd pitch. The Cave Exit was a kick. While Bill and I were waiting at the belay below the Cave, Justin Dubois came galloping by free-solo. He said it was his 3rd free-solo of the day and he had 14 more pitches to go (something like a 30 pitch day). Meanwhile, The Gas Man did the reverse half-nelson 10c move to clear the Cave (not recommended). Trad 5 5.8
2002/08/12 RocknJamin w/ Belen Gym 6 5.9 5.11a
2002/08/15 Thrillseekers w/ Belen, Lead a 5.10 roof, but had to hang-dog once. Gym 6 5.9+ 5.10
2002/08/19 Thrillseekers w/ Belen, Tonight I was in horrific form. I attempted a 5.9 - failed, attempted a 5.10 - failed, attempted a 5.9 flailed, but made it, attempted a 5.9 - failed, attempted a 5.10 - failed, and finally made it up an interesting 5.9. The following factors should be considered: I stayed up and partied, on Thursday night, I drove 7.5 hrs to Santa Fe and stayed up till 1am on Friday night, I stayed up and partied till 1am on Sat. Night, I drove 6.5 hours back to Denver on Sunday'; then, flailed at climbing on Monday. Gym 6 5.9
2002/08/22 Clear Creek Catslab w/ Belen, Billy, and Christine. Mr. Mistoffeles. Definitely have the crux move wired now. Sport 1 5.9
2002/08/22 Clear Creek Mungajerry. I think this is the most fun route on Catslab I have done so far. Next time, try going straight up after the 5th? bolt instead of reaching left to the quartz outcrop. Sport 1 5.10a
2002/08/22 Clear Creek Mungajerry. It was almost completely dark, I dawned the headlamp and topropped the route, threaded the cold shuts, and rapped down. It was a fun adventure. Sport 1 5.10a
2002/08/25 Golden Cliffs How Rebolting w/ Belen. This wide crack is just left of Feeding Frenzy (a smooth face leading up to a roof). HR looks like a big chimney, but the climbing is mostly stems and jams. Great pro. http://www.climbingboulder.com/rock/db/table_mountain_aka_golden_cliffs/industrial_buttress/how_rebolting.html Trad 1 5.7
2002/08/25 Golden Cliffs Brain Cloud. I felt strong compared to the 1st time I climbed this arete, but that was after watching Billy take two whippers (at which time I let The Gas Man lead, and it felt tricky on toprope). Sport 1 5.9
2002/08/26 Clear Creek Dueces Wild on High Wire w/ Belen. Crux was just past the 1st bolt. I couldn't commit to the traverse over to the 1st belay anchors and climbed up to the next bolt, then back down to the anchors. Next time, do the traverse! The climb had many 1sts for Belen and I: 1st multi-pitch I have lead from the ground up, 1st multi-pitch Belen has climbed, 1st hanging belay for Belen, 1st rappel for Belen, 1st rappel for Belen in the dark (now she is really really going to appreciate that new headlamp I'm getting her for her birthday). A few mid-size cams could be used to enhance the pro on this route. Sport 2 5.10a
2002/08/30 Clear Creek Neo-Quasi Bugaloo w/ The Gas Man on Highlander. TGM took a Factor-2 fall on the 1st bolt... hello wake up. This was a fun an challenging climb, the roof felt like the crux for me. The guide says 5.10a for this route, but the original FA called it 5.10c. This route is definitely harder than Learning to Crawl. Sport 1 5.10c
2002/08/30 Clear Creek Learning to Crawl. Sport 1 5.10b
2002/08/31 Golden Cliffs Honey, I Shrunk the Hemorrhoids w/ Kermi
2002/08/31 Golden Cliffs Pee on Dee Sport 1 5.8
2002/08/31 Golden Cliffs Between the lines Sport 1 5.9
2002/08/31 Golden Cliffs Interface. The anchor bolts were both spinners at the top. Also, I think if you fell at or near the anchor you may hit the ground (or the ledge). Hubbel's mentions a #1 CAM, but didn't really think about using it. Sport 1 5.8
2002/09/02 Clear Creek Muddy Waters on River Wall w/ Belen Sport 1 5.10a
2002/09/02 Clear Creek Old Man River w/ Belen... Wow this was highest grade lead to-date (keep in mind, Clear Creek is over-rated). Still, it was a challenging and fun lead for me. Sport 1 5.10c
2002/09/06 Clear Creek Hey Good Lookin on the Wall of the 90s w/ TGM (5.9 version). Sport 1 5.9
2002/09/06 Clear Creek Vixen on the Wall of the 90s w/ TGM Sport 1 5.11a
2002/09/07 Eleven Mile Moby Grape w/ Belen. 1st pitch (and the roof above the belay) is stellar. Past the roof it seemed more like a slog than a climb. This was my first multi pitch trad climb with Belen. Lessons Learned: 1) It always takes longer than you think. 2) Roofs always need long slings to prevent drag. 3) ALWAYS BELAY FROM A 3 PIECE ANCHOR!!!! Trad 2 5.8
2002/09/08 Eldorado Wind Ridge on the Wind Tower w/ Belen. On Sunday we ended up in Boulder, So, I talked Belen into an unplanned trip to Eldo. We did the 5.8 version of Wind Ridge. Fun! The roof was a great surprise (I didn't know about it until I saw it looming above me). We had to dodge two rain storms to climb on dry rock. Almost everyone else (except those stranded on climbs during the 1st storm) had left the park. After waiting out the 1st storm, we basically had the whole Wind Tower to ourselves. It just started raining again when we reached to top. This was my first climb back at Eldo for over 20 years. I was pretty stressed with wonder about how hard the climb and pro would be. I have also been so anxious for the last 6 months to get an Eldo climb under my belt. Lessons Learned: See 9/7/2002!!!!!!!!!! Trad 3 5.8
2002/09/08 Eldorado We also found the site were we want to have our wedding ceremony (33 paces West after you cross the foot bridge).... Really Really Cool Spot!... This was after a quick nix on the traditional wedding site in Eldo, which is Fowler Trail (AKA "Rattle Snake Trail"). The quick nix was due to the many warring signs about rattlesnakes on the trail. We thought some of the guests could freak out.
2002/09/10 RocknJamin w/ Belen, 2X 5.10, tried to toprope a 5.11 with slopper holds all the way, only made it about 1/2 way, picked up my two pair of resoled ACES. Gym 6 5.10
2002/09/17 RocknJamin w/ Belen, 3X 5.10 Gym 6 5.10
2002/09/21 Flatirons 1st Flatiron, Direct Route w/ TGM, Perfect clear blue 65-degree day, we were trying to speed climb it (if you can call it speed climbing when you don't simal climb and we were always belaying). Trad 8 5.6
2002/09/21 Flatirons 3rd Flatiron, Standard East Face, kind of like climbing the leaning Empire State Building. After the climb, we ran back down to the car -still trying to set that speed climbing record!!! ;-) I was at full speed and the rope started slipping down my back. I looked down for a second to re-adjust. Just then at the top of a smal dip in the trail, somehow, both of my feet tripped (tripping on one foot wasn't bad enough). I was sailing head first in the swan dive position to a hard impact. Somehow the cat reflex kicked in and I did a forward flip mid-air and landed flat on my back. 200 feet of rope completely cushioned the fall and all I had to do was make sure no other body parts were damaged. TGM looked back just as I was in the middle of my 2nd roll. When I came to a stop, all I could do was laugh. We ended up doing both Flatirons car-to-car in exactly 5 hours. Not a speed record, but respectable considering we were roped up and belaying at all times. Trad 6 5.4
2002/09/22 Flatirons 3rd Flatiron, Standard East Face w/ Belen, I had so much fun on Saturday - I had to bring Belen up. Another gorgeous blue day, but a little cooler (60 degrees). There was a large group at the top, and I saw a chick ALMOST bite it on the 1st rappel. She wasn't clipped in, threaded her ropes, looked me in the eye, was just about to lean back, then looked down and realized one rope wasn't in her device. She had lead the climb and had this HUGE rack on (looked like an El Cap Rack), which made it hard to even see the belay device. Next time, I'll definetly chime in and say.... "hey, don't you think you should clip in and test the system before you commit to it?" Even after that, she seemed so casual about the whole thing. I told her "God I'm glad you didn't lean back", and all she said was "hmm I don't know how that slipped out", then she just clipped it back in and when down. I think I would have had to take a long time out. We did the climb car-to-car in 6 hours. Trad 6 5.4
2002/09/24 Thrill Seekers w/ Belen, attempted 5.11, had to hang on 5.10 lead Gym 7 5.10 5.9+
2002/09/29 Golden Cliffs Belly Up w/ Belen & Ali, fumbled for about 4 tries to get the right pro in at the crux. I almost called for a rest, but Belen shouted to "breath", which I did, then sent it! Fun climb. http://www.climbingboulder.com/rock/db/table_mountain_aka_golden_cliffs/industrial_buttress/belly_up.html Trad 1 5.8-
2002/09/29 Golden Cliffs Brain Cloud, excellent climb! Sport 1 5.9
2002/10/01 RocknJamin w/ Belen, R&J was too crowded! Gym 7 5.10
2002/10/01
2002/10/15 RocknJamin w/ Belen Gym 8 5.10- 5.9
2002/10/20 Red Rocks w/ TGM & Billy, Johnny Vegas & Solar Slab, 13 hours car2car, I lead 1/2 the pitches (a first for the boys road trip), warm but not hot day, 9 ugly rappels to get down from the top, beautiful climbing, JV 2nd pitch had great exposure, last 3 rappels were in the dark, lost my head-lamp (didn't have it under the helmet tabs, met two climbers from Utah "Aponey". Theme song played over and over in my head for the trip: Steve Winwood "Hold On"... hold on to me when you're falling... hold on to me when you're falling down... hold on to me when you're falling down to the ground. Trad 13 5.7 5.7
2002/10/21 Red Rocks Cat in the Hat, we walked up to Dark Shadows on Mescalito, but it had 2 other parties, CITH was fun!, I missed an easy pro on the 1st pitch near the wide crack and ended up running it out 40 feet (very gripped), on the rap down I found good pro that looked like a TCU in a horizontal crack on the right side about 1/3 of the way up the wide crack after passing the 2 bolt anchor, top pitches are awesome, easy rap down, met a couple from Gunnison Trad 4 5.6+ 5.6
2002/10/22 Red Rocks Magic Bus - Neon Sunset - 3 stars Sport 1 5.8
2002/10/22 Red Rocks Black Corridor - Bonaire, cool spot Sport 1 5.9
2002/10/22 Red Rocks Black Corridor - Vagabonds Sport 1 5.10a
2002/10/30 Gear Record Retired Mamut Galaxy rope after 162 pitches (lead / follow / trail ). Approximately 16,200 feet of climbing. It had several major sheath abrasions/cuts. According the UIAA... America Alpine News, Volume 11, Number 238, Summer 2002....After climbing approximately 5000 meters, the dynamic resistance of the rope is reduced to half and after an additional 6000 meters it is down to 30 percent (UIAA Bulletin #146, June 1994, in German). TGM gave me a new burgundy cordellte.
2002/11/07 Thrill Seekers w/ Belen, tried two 5.10s w/o success. Gym 6 5.9 5.9
2002/11/11 RocknJamin w/ Belen & Lorenzo, 3 X 5.0- leads, had to hang on one Gym 11 5.10- 5.9
2002/11/19 Thrill Seekers w/ Belen & Lorenzo, fall once on 5.10-, hang once on 5.10- Gym 8 5.10- 5.8
2002/11/26 Thrill Seekers w/ Lorenzo, attempted 5.10-, weak! Gym 5 5.9 5.9
2002/12/03 RocknJamin w/ Belen, hung twice on 5.10 on da big wall Gym 6 5.10 5.11a
2002/12/12 Thrill Seekers w/ Belen Gym 6 5.10 5.10
2002/12/17 RocknJamin w/ Lorenzo Gym 5 5.10- 5.9
2002/12/27 Gear Record New Edelweiss Stratos rope from Bent Gate Mountaineer, 60m, 10.5, bi-color, $212
2002/12/27 Golden Cliffs w/ Belen, Pee on D, Windy Days, Brown Cloud Arete 5.10b (flash) Sport 3 5.10b
2002/12/31 RocknJamin w/ Belen, ate huge burrito at chubby's right before, never fully recovered! Gym 7 5.10 5.9
2003/01/02 Paradise w/ Belen, on my 2nd 5.10- lead in a corner while stemming, I was just clipping the 3rd draw when my right foot slipped (the 3rd draw was about two feet up and a 1.5 feet to my right, the 2nd draw was about shin level and two feet to my left; so I must probably had 4 feet of rope out). During the fall, my left foot stayed in place for a second and this situation caused me to pendilum from my right to left in a head down position, I was looking at the floor headed straight down for a second; but as Belen caught my fall, I straightened out. At first I thought I had mistakenly placed my left foot behind the rope, but after analyzing it I determined the pendilum action was caused by my left foot sticking on the hold. Anyway it was a quick loud (banging on the wall and all the hardware action) scary ride for a second, but then in the end it was just exciting. I tried to get back on the route, and I made it past the spot where I felt (clipped the 4th bolt), but didn't have the strength to finish the route. Gym 8 5.10- 5.10
2003/01/12 Castlewood Canyon w/ Belen, Entry Level on Hedgeclipper wall, seemed more like 5.9 at the crux, used a #0 Purple TCU to subsidize the pro at the crux. Sport 1 5.8
2003/01/20 Eldorado w/ Pete, Boulder Direct on Wind Ridge. Fun! and good pro. Trad 3 5.5
2003/01/21 Thrillseekers w/ Belen, weak from going out with Corky the night before! Gym 6 5.9- 5.10a
2003/01/29 RocknJamin w/ Belen, felt strong after two days of Bikram yoga this week. Gym 7 5.10 5.11a
2003/02/11 Mission Cliffs w/ Scott (whom I met at MC), at Mission Cliffs in San Francisco you must bring your own rope to lead, have a belay partner, and pass a 5.10b lead test. So, no leading for me. But, had fun top roping with Scott. We only did 5.10s (5.10a, 5.10b, 5.10c, 5.10c, 5.10b, 5.10b, 5.10a) Strong! Gym 7 5.10c
2003/02/22 RocknJamin w/ Belen, Chris at R&J said to extend your arm and pull the rope to your side during clips, and to always move slowly while clipping. Continuing to work on keeping my hips close to the wall. Gym 8 5.10- 5.10
2003/03/04 Thrillseekers w/ Belen, Pete recommended 42" webbing. Gym 7 5.9 5.10a
2003/03/06 RocknJamin w/ Belen, felt weak, too much food? hang dog on all the 5.10s Gym 5 5.10- 5.9
2003/03/11 Thrillseekers w/ Belen, made it up 3/4 of a 5.11, then everything went down hill quick. Gym 5 5.10
2003/04/02 Golden Cliffs w/ Belen, In Between the Lines Sport 1 5.9
2003/04/18 Gear Record Access Fund sent me a free Maxim 9.8 60m dry rope. I will plan to use this on all future sport climbs, and as a trail rope for trad climbs. The Stratos will be used for future Trad leads.
2003/04/18 Golden Cliffs w/ Belen & TGM, 2 "unknown" 5.8s, Sidelines, This Ain't Naturita, Pilgrim, D's Dry Dream is really cool. Onsite Sidelines. Sport 5 5.10a 5.10a
2003/05/02 Thrillseekers Bouldering Gym 0 v0+
2003/05/05 Golden Cliffs w/ Lorenzo, Offline, Good Man Dan, Politicians Priests and Bodybags (had to grab chains after completing the last move, the last three bolts were 3/8" spinners which didn't inspire a lot of confidence). Sport 3 5.10c
2003/05/06 Golden Cliffs w/ Belen, Lemons Limes & Tangerines Sport 1 5.8
2003/05/08 Eldorado w/ TGM, Werk Supp, The Bomb, TGM's lead on WS was outstanding & very solid. I unfortunately did not remember to use my feet during the P2 jam fest. My hand jams felt good, but on a tough crack, hands don't get you up the rock, need to think feet, feet, feet. Met Sue from Joshua Tree (she was behind me on P1). She was well humored watching me slog up P2. The last time I did this climb 20 years ago, it was tough and scary; but I made it with no hangdogin. This time it was tough, but I have overcome my fear of heights; so it wasn't scary to follow. Better go practice some feet jamin man! Other memorable moments: me having to leave TGM's #9 stopper on P1, me dropping TGM's sling and cam after P2, me trying to sneak out during lunch to retrive TGM's sling/cam, me having to confess to dropping TGM's sling/cam when he noticed it missing, me soloing the left side of the Bastille to retrieve the sling/cam, and finally me pushing the limits on The Bomb. Trad 3 5.4 5.9+
2003/05/16 Red Rocks 1st 3 pitches of Crimson Crysalis with TGM. Basically, this turned out to be the total trip from hell. 2 hour rainstorm in D.C, missed the flight to L.V., didn't hit the trailhead to CC until 12:30pm in scorching 96F, climbed 3 fun pitches, and drank way too much tequila. Trad 3 5.8+
2003/05/16 Red Rocks Gallery w/ Billy, Corky, and Todd. Sport 2 5.9
2003/05/17 Red Rocks Panty Wall with a huge hang over. Sport 1 5.8
2003/05/26 Castlewood Canyon w/ Belen, 30 minute bouldering traverse
2003/05/29 Clear Creek w/ Belen, Little Eiger, First Impressions, Footloose. Sport 2 5.9
2003/05/31 Golden Cliffs w/ Belen, Tenacious, D's Dry Dream Sport 2 5.10a
2003/06/03 Golden Cliffs w/ Belen and Lorenzo, Deck Chairs on the Titanic, The Fabulous Flying Carrs Route Sport 2 5.9+
2003/06/13 Eldorado After our wedding, Belen dawned her climbing shoes and we climbed a short section of Rock for a photo (me barefoot).
2003/06/14 Eldorado w/ my wife Belen!, got up at 6:00am the day after our wedding. Calypso, did 4 pitches to the top of the tower. Trad 4 5.6
2003/06/18 Amsterdam Klimah w/ Belen Gym 5 6a
2003/06/23 Fontvielle, FR w/ Belen Sport 2 5b 6a
2003/06/24 Orgon Canal, FR w/ Belen Sport 2 6a
2003/06/24 Orgon, FR w/ Belen, Wall Street Sport 1 6a
2003/06/25 Mouries, FR w/ Belen Sport 4 6a+ 6a+
2003/06/26 Cassis, FR w/ Belen, En Vau - Doigt de Dieu Integral, this route only had bolts on the 1st pitch, Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2003, From: "Alasdair MacKenzie Hose", To: goclimb511@yahoo.com, Subject: Re: Callanques Question: Howdy Randy, Well no definite answer for you on the callunque question... (finally i remember to check the guide book). the area is "doigt de dieu" (is that part of the boat in the bottom right corner ?), and it looks suspiciously like "doigt de dieu integral" (6b,4c,3b,3b,6a) but at the same time it seems a bit to the right of that one (unless it is the angle of the photo) so the only other options for a long climb is week-end a rome (7b, 6c), unless you created a new finish off mort pour la transe (6c)... personally i would claim it was the 7b,6c and make all my mates buy me a pints of beer because of the impressive grade, but i guess you can tell which climb it was by the relative strain on your fingers at the time... hope this was of some help keep ticking those grades and enjoy the upcoming season of ice in Denver :-) al Trad 3 6b
2003/07/09 Clear Creek w/ Belen, River Wall, Old Man River, Muddy Waters Sport 2 5.10a
2003/07/12 Clear Creek w/ TGM, Wall of the 90s, Centerfold P1 5.10a, Reefer Madness, & another 11a? Sport 3 5.11a
2003/07/15 Golden Cliffs w/ Belen, The Big Dihedral, I had been intimidated by this climb for awhile!, but just the right amount of challenge in the end. Trad 1 5.8
2003/07/17 Eldorado w/ Belen, Alan, and Estel, and the Colorado Mountain Club Tech Division, top roping, Supremacy Slab, Simple Simon Slab, attempted Supremacy Crack w/ little success. Sport 3 5.9+
2003/07/26 Boulder Canyon Serwood Forrest w/ Doug, this was our first climb together in 22 years. Fun! Maid Marian, Little John's Big Stick, and Men In Tights 5.10b Sport 3 5.10b
2003/07/27 Eldorado Washington Erving w/ Belen. Trad 1 5.6
2003/08/02 Eldorado Verschneidung w/ Belen great! Belen had a pretty hard time following it, because it requires hand and feet jams on steep terrain and she needs a little more jamin experience. The first pitch was fun too... just because it was alpine-like terrain and setting up efficient pro on a major traverse was a challenge (straight rope, rope drag, limited pro). Trad 2 5.7
2003/08/09 Clear Creek Cat Slab w/ Alan, Skimbleshanks, Mr. Mistoffeles Sport 2 5.9
2003/08/16 Clear Creek Highwire w/ Belen, Cracker Jack, Passing Lane Sport 2 5.9
2003/08/21 Golden Cliffs w/ Lorenzo, Fast Boat to China 5.8 (trad - fun!), D'S Dry Dream (sport 5.10a, my favorite route at Table). Trad 2 5.10a
2003/08/23 Lumpy Ridge Sundance Buttress, Mainliner, w/ TGM. This was an ultimate climbing day! A classic climb, a casual start - 7:30am at TGM's house, perfect weather, a reasonable approach, a climb that I could actually swing leads with TGM (a historic event), and reaching the top in good style. The stemming section was straight forward and fun for me. The jam crack above was a little harder and for once I did not stall in the middle of the crack. We met an impressive women from Boulder who had just lead a heinous OW (Kre). Trad 5 5.8 5.9
2003/08/24 Eldorado Duh Dihedral w/ Belen. Beautiful steep climb with a couple challenging moves for 5.6. I didn't bring a #4 and didn't really need it. Trad 1 5.6
2003/09/02 Golden Cliffs w/ Belen, Attempted a 5.10?, wasn't up for the required mantel move. Did an unknown 5.9. Then a lightning storm rolled in quick and we had to dodge bolts between the cliff and our car - not good! Sport 1 5.9
2003/09/20 Eldorado 1st pitch of Over and Out, and 2nd pitch of Over the Hill w/ TGM. Total classic. Trad 2 5.9
2003/09/20 Eldorado S&M, There were some fun moves, but... the first 80 feet has sketchy pro, the tall dead tree is listing and ready to fall on your belayer (I opted for the power lieback jam crack), and the walk-off to the South is loose and dangerous. Trad 1 5.7
2003/09/21 Golden Cliffs Corniche and The John Roskelly Show w/ Belen. Corniche is now my favorite 5.8 trad route at Table (pretty easy). JR requires RPs and a few small cams. The pro situation on JR made this very challenging for me. Basically, I thought it was a bolted run-out route; but it really needs pro. Belen did a good job. Trad 2 5.10a
2003/09/04 Eldorado Ice 9 and Doctor Michael Solar w/ Belen. Both were fun! Trad 2 5.7
2003/09/06 Eldorado Forever Primitive w/ Pete. Easy climb, very pretty at the top. Pro to 3.5 Cam. Trad 4 5.6 5.6
2003/10/19 South Plate Cynical Pinnacle - Turf Spreader w/ TGM. It was a celebrity day, we met John Krakauer in the parking lot (TGM recognized him from a prior crag run in), he was climbing with a hard-woman - Becky, and we followed Steve Levin and Dan Stone up TS. This was a challenging day for me (little recent climbing, hot..hot..hot 90F+, crack-offwidth-and mo-crack). I was fine until the last 60' of the climb, wherein I ran out of energy and had to resort to unprecedented techniques of dubious style. On the good side, I negotiated the offwidth sections with steady progress. As usual, TGM was a climbing machine. After the climb, we met John and Becky at the Bucksnort and had the privilege of spending some time with these extraordinary people. Trad 3 5.11b
2004/01/13 Thrillseekers w/ Belen Gym 6 5.10a
2004/01/18 Boulder Canyon The Dome, East Slabs w/ Belen, Excellent long easy pitch!! Our first day out for 2004. I was in the sun all the way, Belen was just 10 feet below the sun the whole way; but stayed warm enough. Trad 1 5.6
2004/03/06 RocknJamin2 w/ Belen Gym 6 5.10a 5.10
2004/03/14 RocknJamin2 w/ Belen Gym 6 5.10a 5.10
2004/03/18 Garden of the Gods 4 day climbing road trip w/ Belen, 1st pitch of New Era, reminded me of Crimson Crysalis, didn't do 2nd pitch because the guide book said it was run out and I chickened out. Trad 1 5.7
2004/03/19 Shelf Road The B.O.S.S. method, fun climb for one star, then traversed right to Dumb Waiter for the TR w/ Belen Sport 1 5.8
2004/03/19 Shelf Road TR on Dumb Waiter (too chicken to venture over the bulge on-site). Another good climb for only one star.w/ Belen Sport 1 5.9+
2004/03/19 Shelf Road Lead Dumb Waiter clean.w/ Belen Sport 1 5.9+
2004/03/19 Shelf Road Unknown climb directly right of Dumb Waiter, could be 5.9 or 5.10, I'll call it 5.10a, on-site! (after watching Belen TR it :-) Sport 1 5.10a
2004/03/20 Penitente Tough climbing!!!! w/ Belen Sport 1 5.8
2004/03/20 Penitente Near Rock Garden trail. w/ Belen Sport 1 5.8
2004/03/21 Witches Canyon Unknown #3 in Penitente guide book. Had to use A2 to get through the crux! Major frustration with that rock. w/ Belen Sport 1 5.9
2004/03/30 RocknJamin2 w/ Belen, felt very strong! Sport 6 5.10a 5.9
2004/04/04 Golden Cliffs w/ Belen, Nipple Pyle **, pro to 2" http://www.climbingboulder.com/rock/db/table_mountain_aka_golden_cliffs/industrial_buttress/nipple_phyle.html Trad 1 5.6
2004/04/04 Golden Cliffs John Roskelly Show, couldn't do the moves to the right of the first bolt, so when left and climbed the crack which was great and much easier. w/ Belen Sport 1 5.10a 1
2004/04/10 RocknJamin2 w/ Belen Gym 6 5.10 5.8
2004/04/13 RocknJamin2 w/ Belen Gym 6 5.10 5.11-
2004/04/16 Thrillseekers w/ Belen, Lorenzo, and Akelly. L is always trying to get me to hold on for 15 more seconds. I am convinced if we climbed together on a regular basis I would be able to match his 5.12 ability soon. Gym 6 5.10- 5.10+
2004/04/26 Golden Cliffs w/ Belen, John Adams' Adams Apple, and the "real" Belly Up. I believe I may have done a first ascent of the Belly Up I originally posted on climbingboulder.com in 2002. Trad 2 5.8
2004/04/28 Eldorado w/ Belen, Mescaline and Doctor's Little Brother. http://www.climbingboulder.com/rock/db/eldorado_canyon/west_ridge/doc_s_little_brother.html Trad 2 5.7
2004/05/03 Golden Cliffs w/ Belen. I didn't have a guide book, so I tried the first arete that looked good. I made it up two bolts and got gripped, two guys stopped to watch at the base and began yelling lots of beta (grab right, move, don't stop, reach right, move...). They seemed to be very impressed that I was giving the climb a go, but I was spent and couldn't continue. One guy said he worked a whole season before he got the climb. The other guy said, yep he spent many hours at the belay. Then, they asked if I knew how hard it was... nope. "It is the only 5.13 at table".... I'll keep working on it! We also climbed BM twice, and Brain Cloud. Sport 3 5.9 5.9
2004/05/07 RocknJamin2 Hooked up w/ a Sam, a 5.12 climber! - I held my own until we hit the 5.11 and 5.12 climbs. 4x5.10, 2x5.9 Gym 6 5.10 5.9
2004/05/10 Red Rocks w/ Belen, Necromancer - Hop Route, Fold-Out Trad 2 5.8
2004/05/11 Red Rocks Cat in the Hat w/ Belen Trad 6 5.6+
2004/05/12 Red Rocks Badger and Classic Dihedral on Red Springs Rock w/ Belen. Badger was slightly run out, more challenging than it appears and has two bolts. Classic Dihedral is a left facing dihedral that appears to be slightly overhung, excellent pro, set of nuts, cams to 3", you can head left at around 80' into an easier crack, double sling needed for the belay at the top, good hand and feet jams. Trad 2 5.8
2004/05/13 Red Rocks Black Corridor, left side w/ TGM. Sport 6 5.10 5.10
2004/05/14 Red Rocks Crimson Crysalis w/ TGM. Trad 9 5.7 5.8
2004/06/01 Clear Creek Free solo up a new route underneath the Highwire crag - May D&F, 5.3, 75', it is a right facing dihedral that goes up a ramp. The dihedral is split by a clean crack which provides some nice jams. Pro to 3". I have named it May D&F because it reminds me of going up the BIG escalators at the old May D&F in Cherry Creek when I was a kid. Trad 1 5.3
2004/06/05 Flatirons South East Arete on the 2nd Flatiron w/ Belen. Over the easy terrain, there are lots of loooong run outs. If you wanted to boost the pro factor, I think a #4 Camelot would be useful at several points on this route (I left mine at home). This route has great views of Boulder and of the 3rd Flatiron, but otherwise the 1st, 3rd, and 4th pitches are pretty monotonous. The 2nd pitch on the other hand is excellent. Trad 4 5.7
2004/06/10 Eleven Mile The Overleaf w/ Belen. I had to hang after passing the crux for a couple of minutes. Trad 2 5.8
2004/06/11 Eleven Mile The Staircase. I did the 5.8 OW version. My 1st 5.8 OW lead! A #3 Camelot protects the easy OW. This is a great climb in every respect, but draws a crowd. I don't think there is a better 5.5 anywhere. w/ Belen Trad 2 5.8
2004/06/11 Eleven Mile Phantom Pinnacle. See my write-up on this climb: http://www.climbingboulder.com/rock/db/elevenmile_canyon/elevenmile_dome/phantom_pinnacle.html w/ Belen Trad 2 5.7
2004/06/12 Eleven Mile Captain Fist. I took a fall moving between the slab and the crack - fun! Belen had a hard time on the slab, but cruzed the crack. This is a good climb. I then TR the climb once. w/ Belen Trad 2 5.7
2004/06/24 Clear Creek First Impressions and Footloose on Little Eiger w/ TGM. After work, it rained until 6:30pm so we were lucky to get a couple of quality climbs. Still a little slippery, but TGM was impervious. I definitely did not have my sport climbing legs/core/fingers. Shaky on the 5.9 crux, feet slipped on a stem move on the 5.10 (amazingly my finger locks held), and completely on the edge on the 5.10 crux... lots of humor for TGM to watch. Sport 2 5.10a
2004/06/26 Eldorado West Overhang on Wind Ridge w/ Belen. Fun route good pro, I missed the Red Ledge walk off by ending the route too high. Rain threatened all day, but didn't start in earnest until we were down. Trad 3 5.7
2004/06/27 Dream Canyon w/ Drew, Gully Washer (5.8), A Brief History of Time (5.9), Wrinkle in Time (5.8+), Time Traveler (5.9) Sport 5 5.8 5.9
2004/06/28 Clear Creek Hi Wire w/ Belen, 5th of July, Ace in the Hole, Passing Lane Sport 3 5.10a
2004/06/29 Clear Creek Eiger w/ TGM, Headline (10a - I lead it), Bonehead (11a? I had to hangdog on TR), Eiger Sanctioned (TR, I slipped low when I missed a key hold) Sport 3 5.10a 5.10d
2004/07/05 Eldorado Tigger w/ Belen, and 4th classed up to the base of Your Basic Layback on Peanuts Wall. Three separate storms rolled through during the day, pretty scary at times. Trad 2 5.5
2004/07/09 Golden Cliffs Wholely Holy, Lord God Almighty, Brain Cloud, Thunderbird, and Blow Chow w/ Belen and Akelly. See: http://www.climbingboulder.com/rock/db/table_mountain_aka_golden_cliffs/industrial_buttress/thunderbird_aka_light_beer.html and http://www.climbingboulder.com/rock/db/table_mountain_aka_golden_cliffs/industrial_buttress/blow_chow.html Trad 4 5.9
2004/07/13 RocknJamin2 w/ Belen - nice cool AC on a 100F day! Hangdog on a 5.11- Gym 5 5.10
2004/07/18 Golden Cliffs Stoney Middleton - Pro: Standard Rack up to #2 Camelot. This route does not have a bolted belay; but you can use the Shadow of a Hangdog’s belay bolts (climbers left) with a couple of long slings, or there are some nice cracks to set your own belay. This is the right facing dihedral immediately right of Brain Cloud and Shadow of a Hangdog. Overall, this is one of the cleanest and most contiguous moderate cracks I have found at Table. The pro is plentiful and there are fun jams. w/ Belen Trad 1 5.8
2004/07/18 Golden Cliffs Sick Minds Think Alike, aka Cliff Notes, pro to #2 Camelot, w/ Belen Trad 1 5.8+
2004/07/20 Golden Cliffs Don't Pout 'cause Yer Down 'n Out, w/ Belen see my description on climbingboulder.com Trad 1 5.8
2004/07/20 Golden Cliffs Pigeon Pile Pinnacle w/ Belen Sport 1 5.11a
2004/07/26 RocknJamin2 w/ Belen Gym 4 5.10
2004/08/02 Golden Cliffs Mandela aka Leaning Pillar, w/ Belen, see my description on climbingboulder.com Trad 1 5.7+
2004/08/02 Golden Cliffs Scarlett's Pulse, see my description on climbingboulder.com w/ Belen Trad 1 5.8
2004/08/07 South Plate Turkey Perch w/ Belen, Reefer Madness 5.8, Honky Jam Ass Crack 5.7. My hardest jam lead to date. Belen did great and was not even out of breath at the top of either climb. We had to leave early to go to Terry & Louise's party. The whole area was pounded by the Haymen fire two years earlier and looked very beat up (holes and fallen trees everywhere). The path to Turkey Rocks was now almost non-existent due to flash flooding, fallen trees, and mud slides. It was interesting to see how the fire swept right over this 200 foot cliff outcropping). Met some nice Brits from Shefield. Trad 2 5.8
2004/08/08 Golden Cliffs Love, Sex, and the IRS w/ Belen. Could be the best 5.8 at Table! Trad 1 5.8
2004/08/08 Golden Cliffs Pump You Up, see my description on climbingboulder.com. w/ Belen Trad 1 5.9-
2004/08/10 RocknJamin2 w/ Belen Gym 5 5.10
2004/08/22 Eleven Mile Jolly Jugular w/ Belen, fun 5.6, did a fun 5.7 finish at the top straight over a bulge with a thin crack. Trad 2 5.7
2004/08/22 Eleven Mile Roof-by-Pass w/ Belen, could be one of the best 5.7 jam cracks in the world. Bring an extra #2 Camelot. Trad 2 5.7
2004/08/24 Golden Cliffs Nine To Five, w/ TGM. Fun route. Sport 1 5.9
2004/08/24 Golden Cliffs Silver Bullet, w/ TGM, crux key = step up into the middle of the crack with your right foot. Sport 1 5.10c
2004/08/24 Golden Cliffs Bimbo in Limbo, w/ TGM, fun jams. Sport 1 5.10a
2004/08/26 Golden Cliffs Attempted Abortion Control w/ Belen, ran out of big gear 1/2 way up and jumped on Bimbo in Limbo. Need 2 #3s and 2 #4s. I think Abortion Control is 5.8. Then did left side start to Bimbo in Limbo. Sport 2 5.10a
2004/08/30 Golden Cliffs Deck Chairs on the Titanic, and Brown Cloud Arete w/ Belen. Saw Gary who was wearing a tattered pair of EBs, he claims were on their 2nd resole. Sport 2 5.10a
2004/09/01 Golden Cliffs Henry Spies the Line and D's Dry Dream w/ Belen Sport 2 5.10a
2005/09/05 Gear Record New #5 Camelot
2004/09/05 Vedauwoo Corn 5.5, Barley 5.6, and Amaranth 5.7- w/ Belen. We finally got some climbing in after a rainy afternoon, night, and morning. This area reminds me of Yosemite cracks, except the rock is much shorter! See route write-ups on cb.com Trad 3 5.7-
2004/09/12 Golden Cliffs Heidi Hi w/ Belen. Trad 1 5.8
2004/09/16 Golden Cliffs This Bone's for You 9, The Perfect Ten 10, !Not 10a, Cat's Meow 10a, with TGM Sport 4 5.10a
2004/09/18 Flatirons 1st Flatiron, Direct Route w/ Belen, warm but breezy day (the rope looked pretty wild flying in the wind on the traverse). Trad 5 5.6
2004/09/19 South Plate Unknown climb in Lost Valley w/ TGM. I had to do the secret handshake before we hit the trail head to this secret spot. The climb was primarily slab. Definitely my hardest slab lead and clean slab 2nd to date. Perfect day! 1600 feet of climbing on this great weekend. Sport 4 5.9+ 5.10c
2004/10/05 RocknJamin2 w/ Belen, slogged up a 5.10+ on the big roof Gym 5 5.10
2004/10/12 RocknJamin2 w/ Belen Gym 5 5.10
2004/10/17 South Plate Squat Rock w/ TGM, Branded - L, Lichen or Not, Casual Corner - L, Urban Development Trad 4 5.8 5.10b
2004/10/17 South Plate Squat Rock - Smut Puppy, I fell off the crux several times, but finally made the moves, much better than my first attempt a couple of years ago. Good lead for TGM on the 1/4" run out bolts. Sport 1 5.11a
2004/10/24 Red Rocks Calico Basin "Lancaster Levels Luxor" w/ Belen. We were headed to climb "Bottoms Up" - 5.7. On the hike in another party told us the crack two climbs to the left of the crack we were looking at was "Ghouls Just Wanna Have Fun", which I used as the landmark for what I thought was "Bottoms Up". Before starting the climb, I checked the guidebook again, and looked at the climb, it seemed to match the description. After the crux, I kept thinking that this must be at least 5.7+. After I returned to earth, I was reading the guidebook to scope out the next climb, and "Landcaster Levels Luxor" caught my eye. I soon realized that the crack two climbs to the left of us was "Guys and Ghouls" and we hadn't climbed "Bottoms Up" at all (wrong crag, wrong, climb, wrong rating), but that I had just done my hardest onsite trad lead to date. I was both thrilled and pissed at myself. Never take route finding, even with a guide book, for granted! see write up on climbingredrocks.com Trad 1 5.9+
2004/10/24 Red Rocks Guys and Ghouls w/ Belen, see write up on climbingredrocks.com Trad 1 5.6
2004/10/25 Red Rocks The Gallery w/ TGM and Jose Sport 4 5.9- 5.10b
2004/10/25 Red Rocks Black Velvet w/ TGM, first two pitches of Prince of Darkness. What a big flat wall! TGM's 2nd pitch was steep, sloppy, and sandy. Trad&Sport 2 5.6 5.10b
2004/10/26 Red Rocks Brass Wall w/ TGM, Vanishing Point. Trad 2 5.8+ 5.9+
2004/10/29 Red Rocks Calico Basin w/ Belen, Right of Cow-Lick and Cow-Lick Sport 2 5.8
2004/10/29 Red Rocks Calico Basin w/ Belen, Bottoms Up. Trad 1 5.7
2004/11/06 Golden Cliffs This Ain't Naturita, Pilgrim w/ Belen Sport 1 5.9
2004/11/06 Golden Cliffs FRA of Retro-Crack w/ Belen, see cb.com. I lead it then top-roped it. This is a trad crack climb established after a bolt climb was already put in place right next to it (Pee on Dee). Other names I considered were "No Commitment", because at any point you can reach right and clip the Pee on Dee bolts. I named this climb to poke fun at "Tony Bubb's Little Stick" Trad 2 5.9+
2004/11/07 Golden Cliffs Dee's Dry Dream w/ Belen Sport 1 5.10a
2004/11/07 Golden Cliffs Retro-Crack w/ Belen Trad 1 5.9+
2004/11/29 RocknJamin2 w/ Belen, This was my first day of my new project to conquer the "crack". I made it up 1/2 on the crack using open feet and all jams. Gym 7 5.10- 5.9
2004/12/11 Golden Cliffs Lemons Limes and Tangerines, and Tenacious w/ Belen. A 70 degree day! Sport 3 5.10- 5.10-
2004/12/11 Golden Cliffs Big Dihedral w/ Belen Trad 1 5.8
2004/12/27 RocknJamin2 w/ Belen, day 2 on the crack project and only got 1/3 of it Gym 10 5.10- 5.9
2004/12/28 Eldorado Calypso w/ Belen, 55 degrees in Denver perfect, both pitches Trad 2 5.6
2004/12/29 Golden Cliffs Bush Loves Detroit w/ Belen, challenging, double up on #2s, 54 degrees in Denver! Trad 1 5.8+
2004/12/29 Golden Cliffs Hand Crack w/ Belen Trad 1 5.8
2005/01/01 Gear Record New #3 Camelot
2005/02/19 Clear Creek Highwire w/ Belen, Poker Face and Pony Up Sport 2 5.8 5.9
2005/02/27 Golden Cliffs This Ain't Naturita, Pilgrim and Sidelines w/ Belen. 45 degrees in Denver. Partly sunny at Table with little or no wind. Very pleasant with a couple of layers. Sport 2 5.10a
2005/02/27 My climbing goals for 2005: - 60 Trad leads - 20 Trad leads at Eldo - 10 Trad leads at Vedawoo - 10 5.9 Trad leads
2005/03/12 Golden Cliffs Corniche w/ Belen Trad 1 5.8
2005/03/12 Golden Cliffs BM w/ Belen Sport 1 5.9
2005/04/15 Golden Cliffs Stoney Middleton w/ Belen Trad 1 5.8
2005/04/15 Golden Cliffs Attempted Shadow of a Hangdog on TR, but no go on the finger locks. w/ Belen Sport 1 5.10a
2005/04/15 Golden Cliffs Climbed Stoney Middleton on TR to clean our anchor. w/ Belen Sport 1 5.8
2005/04/15 Golden Cliffs Big Dihedral, it was all going so nicely until just past the bulge, then a fall, two hangs, an ugly French free, and an hour to the top. w/ Belen Trad 1 5.8
2005/04/17 South Plate Squat Rock: Stickey Fingers, Lichen It or Not, Branded - L, Kirk's Corner, and Higher Education. A Yosemite warm up day with crack and slab. TGM lead the run out Higher Education slab fest (5.10b imho). If your not in the zone on this one, your crashin and burnin. I'll look forward to my lead in another lifetime. Trad 5 5.8 5.10a
2005/04/19 Golden Cliffs Deck Chairs on the Titanic and Windy Days w/ Belen. Sport 2 5.9+
2005/04/29 Moab 5.6 Corner at Ice Cream Parlor w/ Belen Trad 1 5.6
2005/04/29 Moab 5.10 slab at Ice Cream Parlor w/ Belen Sport 1 5.10
2005/04/29 Moab 5.9 face at Ice Cream Parlor w/ Belen Sport 1 5.9
2005/04/30 Moab 30 Seconds over Potash w/ Belen. I fell at the crux on the 1st attempt. Trad 1 5.9-
2005/04/30 Moab 30 Seconds over Potash - lap #2 Trad 1 5.9-
2005/04/30 Moab 30 Seconds over Potash - lap #3 Trad 1 5.9-
2005/04/30 Moab Attempted Eat the Rich at Potash, but had to back off about 1/2 way up after several attempts. Trad 1 5.10c
2005/04/30 Moab Attempted 5.7 Slab, but got a little off route past the 2nd bolt and making it to the 3rd bolt appeared to be a ground fall. The route description said run out, but seemed like an X run out to me. I methodically downclimbed to safety wanting to kill the route setter on this one. Sport 1 5.7
2005/05/01 Moab Attempted Top Forty at Potash, made it past the 2nd pro placement, but the climbing was all lay back and felt too dangerous to me. So, backed off after several attempts and it was starting to rain pretty hard. Trad 1 5.8
2005/05/02 Moab Wolverine (Crack #1) at Ice Cream Parlor. w/ Belen Trad 1 5.8
2005/05/02 Moab Crack #2 at Ice Cream Parlor. w/ Belen Trad 1 5.8
2005/05/02 Moab Crack #3 at Ice Cream Parlor. w/ Belen Trad 1 5.8
2005/05/12 Yosemite Nutcracker w/ TGM, first two pitches then caught a group in front of us and rapped. After many days of rain the first pitch was a wet slippery lay-back and felt more like 5.9. Trad 2 5.4 5.7
2005/05/12 Yosemite 1st pitch of After Six. Trad 1 5.7
2005/05/12 Yosemite Just Do-do It. Sport 1 5.10a
2005/05/13 Yosemite Commitment. Didn't use proper crack technique and fell right off the deck. With the rope stretch, it gave the party behind us a pretty good thrill. Then, I attacked the crack properly and cruised it. However, my confidence for leading the moderate 2nd pitch was gone and TGM lead the way. Trad 3 5.9
2005/05/13 Yosemite 1st pitch of Harry Daley. Supertopo rates both pitches 5.8! So, I guess this is my first 5.8 lead in the Valley! Trad 1 5.8
2005/05/14 Yosemite Reed's Direct. This is definitely the best two pitch climb I have done, and the hardest crack I have done. Very intimidating, but it all came together on this magic day crankin the jams. Trad 2 5.10a
2005/05/14 Yosemite Golden Needles. 1st pitch went great, but had difficulty negotiating the bulge on the 2nd pitch. TGM thought I was a goner, but with some unorthodox foot work I made it to the rap rings (short of the top). Quote for the trip… "ok I think that was enough excitement for BOTH of us". Trad 2 5.7
2005/05/14 Yosemite Makayla's Climb. Sport 1 5.9
2005/05/15 Yosemite In the morning met up with Hansie, Nick, Cedar, Christoph, Matt, and saw the famous Chongo.
2005/05/28 Golden Cliffs FA of 69.5 Crack w/ Belen and Pete. Trad 1 5.8
2005/05/28 Golden Cliffs Meat is Murder w/ Belen Trad 1 5.8
2005/06/01 Eldorado Michael Solar, Mesca-line, ??? Left of Mesca-Line, and Knights Move w/ Belen Trad 6 5.7 5.9
2005/06/12 Taylor Canyon Tony's Tango, Baby Face, Taylor Made, and Left Hand w/ Belen and Bones. Trad 4 5.6 5.10a
2005/06/13 Taylor Canyon Attempted Aphrodite (had to retreat), Jackel (1st pitch stellar), Jackel 2nd pitch (needed a 4.5, had to retreat), Zig-Zag w/ Belen Trad 4 5.7 5.9
2005/08/01 RocknJamin2 w/ Belen Gym 8 5.10- 5.9
2005/08/07 Eldorado Duh Dihedral, Early Bird Special, and Srinagar w/ Belen. Attempted Tampon, but got up 1/2 way and ran out of good pro. Trad 3 5.7
2005/08/16 RocknJamin2 w/ Belen Gym 8 5.10 5.9
2005/08/20 Vedauwoo Attempted Stinkzig (head stuck in chimney), Cornelius, Easy Jam, and Slat w/ Belen on Nautilus. Trad 3 5.7
2005/08/21 Vedauwoo Edward's crack and Par Four w/ Belen Trad 3 5.7
2005/08/30 Golden Cliffs Child Free Zone: Power and Lies, Off Guard, and Cool Thing w/ Belen Sport 3 5.9 5.11
2005/09/03 Eldorado Met Nick for coffee at Café Sole. Breezy w/ 5.6 start w/ Belen. Majorly tweaked back from 9/1/05 mountain biking twist. Trad 2 5.6
2005/09/16 Clear Creek I'll Be Back Crack, FA, w/ Belen. Name derived from the pumpy nature of the climb in reference to Schwarzenegger. Trad 1 5.8+
2005/09/19 Golden Cliffs In between the lines, and Offline w/ Belen Sport 2 5.9-
2005/10/23 Boulder Canyon East Slab w/ Belen. Felt much easier the 2nd time. Trad 1 5.6
2005/10/27 Shelf Road Cactus Cliff: Crynoid Corner, Oscar de la Cholla, LaCholla Jackson, with Belen and Bones, Perfect day. Sport 3 5.9-
2005/10/28 Shelf Road Cactus Cliff w/ TGM, Bones and Belen. - Raven, Dihedrus - Too Much Beef and Not Enough Meat - Politically Incorrect - Are You Experiential? - Blackman's Burden Bones gave The Gas Man a new nick name after his effortless lead of Are You Experiential? "The Seven Minute Rope Gun". I did my first single digit lock off. Another perfect day. Sport 6 5.9 5.10d
2005/10/29 Shelf Road Sand Gulch: The Opportunist, Enterprise, and Barney w/ Bones and Belen. The description for Barney said 7 bolts. So, when I had past the 6th bolt and could clearly see two more bolts past a bulge on a smooth face I was quit concerned that I may be on the wrong route once again headed for 5.11 territory. However, the top proved to be thin and solid 5.9. Today, Bones gave me a new nick name, "The 20 Minute Rope Gun". The 3rd perfect day in a row. Sport 3 5.9+
2005/10/30 Shelf Road Sand Gulch: Gotham City w/ Bones and Belen. The 4th perfect day in a row, but we hit a major snow storm on the way home going over Monument Hill. Sport 1 5.10a
2005/11/11 Red Rocks w/ TGM. Theme for the trip: "adventure climbing". Warmed up on Schaeffer's Delight, Wholesome Fullback, and San Felipe. Trad 3 5.7 5.10a
2005/11/12 Red Rocks Dream of Wild Turkeys (first 5 pitches), this wall just keeps looming over your head. TGM found out it is best to stay in the crack on P3, he had to run it out over 30 feet on the arete; then work the crux with major rope drag. Using the old bolted belay to break up P3 would probably be the best to save on gear and eliminate rope drag. Trad 5 5.6 5.10a
2005/11/13 Red Rocks The Great Red Book. Trad 2 5.8
2006/01/14 Boulder Canyon The Owl w/ Belen. Warm day, dropped Ali at Streetwise and snuck in a climb. Had to rush in the end… top of dome to 55th and Arapahoe in 23 minutes. Trad 2 5.7
2006/02/04 Golden Cliffs Jumared Lemons, Limes, and Tangerines w/ Belen Aid 1 A0
2006/03/04 Shelf Road 3/2-3/4 - Winter road trip w/ Belen. The B.O.S.S. Method Dumb Waiter x2 Right of Dumb Waiter Time Square x2 Enterprise The Opportunist Cheers Stone of Ignorance Damn Right I've Got the Moves Chompin' at the Cholla Sport 12 5.9+
2006/04/30 Diablo Canyon, NM Post Moderate w/ Belen, 17 bolts of steep slightly overhanging fun climbing! Sport 1 5.9
2006/05/02 White Rock, NM The Overlook, Polly's Crack w/ Belen. Challenging steep 5.8 for sure. Trad 1 5.8
2006/05/02 White Rock, NM The Overlook, The Cholla Crack w/ Belen Trad 1 5.9
2006/05/12 Shelf Road w/ TGM: Lumina 5.9, Porkus Procurement 5.10d, Shelf Road Virgin 5.10b, 27 Tons 5.10a, Teenage waistband 5.10b/c, Kalahari Sidewinder 5.8, Wadsworth Boulevard 5.10c We climbed until sunset and on the way back to Canyon City we hit a deer. Always watch for deer at dusk! Sport 7 5.9 5.10d
2006/05/13 Shelf Road Mural Wall w/ TGM: Bobbitt Effect 5.9+, Moroccan Roll 5.10b, Living in a Vacuum 5.10c, Seaweed 5.9, Happy Nightmare Baby 5.10b, w/ Steve: Sand Gulch - The Opportunist 5.9, Sand Gulch - Enterprise 5.9+ Sport 7 5.9+ 5.10c
2006/05/14 Shelf Road Steve and I went to Oak Creek / Tanner Dome, but a new regulation there prohibits climbing for Peregrine Falcon nesting from 4/1 to 8/1. Tanner was the only area I had beta on, so we found another crag outside the closed zone and I on-sited the 5.8 crack below without knowing what the rating was, then we top roped the other two climbs. We projected the 5.11 not knowing the rating, but knowing it was damn hard. Oak Creak - Alhambra Pool 5.8 (bolt missing on initial face) Oak Creek - Warren Banks 5.10 crack (TR) Oak Creek - The Bohemian 5.11b/c (TR) Then, it rained the rest of the day. Trad 4 5.8 5.11b/c
2006/05/15 Shelf Road Spiney Ridge - Damn Right I've Got the Moves 5.9 Spiney Ridge - Stone of Ignorance 5.10a Spiney Ridge - Cheers 5.8+ Cactus Cliff - Chompin' at the Cholla 5.9 I had to leave at 2pm. Steve was climbing well. Sport 4 5.10a
2006/05/19 Morrison Lover's Leap w/ Pete. Fun in the shade! Trad 4 5.7 5.7
2006/05/19 Morrison Unknown just left of Lover's Leap. Sport 1 5.10a
2006/05/26 Morrison Lover's Leap w/ Belen. Had to use the sole of my climbing shoe to bang on the cleaning tool to remove a stuck stopper. Trad 3 5.7
2006/06/11 Monastery Table Wine, Abbot Arete, Southern Hospitality x2, w/ Belen Sport 3 5.10a 5.10a
2006/06/12 Lumpy Ridge White Whale w/ Belen Trad 3 5.7
2006/07/17 Clear Creek The Put In w/ Belen. 75 degrees… perrrrrrrrrfect temps!!! Sport 1 5.8
2006/07/17 Clear Creek Muddy Waters w/ Belen Sport 1 5.10a
2006/07/17 Clear Creek Old Man River (right side variation) w/ Belen Sport 1 5.10c
2006/07/20 TGM's Home Gym 10 laps on V Easy +, 2 laps on V Easy, 2 1/2 laps on V Easy traverse Gym
2006/07/23 Golden Cliffs Kid's climb w/ Belen - 2 falls! on this warm up Sport 1 5.10a
2006/07/23 Golden Cliffs New River Gorge Homesick Blues Sport 1 5.9+
2006/07/23 Golden Cliffs Dee's Dry Dream w/ Belen (I did the4 5.8 stem version to see what it was all about (easy!). Sport 1 5.8
2006/08/14 Smith Rock Ginger Snap w/ Belen Sport 1 5.8
2006/08/14 Smith Rock Revelations w/ Belen Sport 1 5.9
2006/08/14 Smith Rock Irreverence w/ Belen Sport 1 5.10a
2006/08/14 Smith Rock Nightingale's on Vacation, B opted out, tricky! definitely my hardest onsite to date Sport 1 5.10b
2006/08/15 Smith Rock Cosmos Sport 1 5.10a
2006/08/15 Smith Rock Screaming Yellow Zonkers, Brian Pavlack's favorite climb, steep and intimidating, B opted out. Sport 1 5.10b
2006/08/15 Smith Rock Five Gallon Buckets w/ Belen Sport 1 5.8
2006/08/15 Smith Rock Light on the Path w/ Belen Sport 1 5.9
2006/09/02 Independence Pass Bucket Brigade w/ TGM Sport 1 5.9
2006/09/02 Independence Pass Way fang shu??? w/ TGM Sport 1 5.10c
2006/09/02 Independence Pass Show Pony Sport 1 5.9
2006/09/02 Independence Pass 5.10b next to Show Pony w/ TGM Sport 1 5.10b
2006/09/02 Independence Pass Truth decay Sport 1 5.9
2006/09/02 Independence Pass This way or that w/ TGM Sport 1 5.10b
2006/09/02 Independence Pass Old School 5.10b (I belayed TGM) Sport
2006/09/03 Independence Pass My Favorite Martin w/ TGM (FA Reese Martin / Charlote Fox) w/ TGM Sport 1 5.8
2006/09/03 Independence Pass Fifty Yard Dash w/ TGM Sport 1 5.10a
2006/09/03 Independence Pass Horny for You w/ TGM Sport 1 5.11a
2006/09/03 Independence Pass Face climb?? w/ TGM Sport 1 5.11a
2006/09/17 Clear Creek Wall of the 90s, Alone Time with my Banana, w/ TGM Sport 1 5.6
2006/09/17 Clear Creek Vixen on the Wall of the 90s w/ TGM Sport 1 5.10c
2006/09/17 Clear Creek Leftover Stuff w/ TGM Sport 1 5.10c
2006/09/30 Golden Cliffs Big Dihedral w/ Belen + 2 topropes. When we started up the trail I told Belen, lets go do that climb that kicked by butt last time. I climbed it well this time, but the crux is still a tricky move for me. Trad 3 5.8
2006/09/30 Golden Cliffs Wholely Holy, Lord God Almighty w/ Belen Sport 2 5.8
2006/10/01 Dream Canyon Deviation w/ TGM, perfect fall day Sport 3 5.10a 5.11b
2006/10/15 Clear Creek Old Man River w/ TGM. I fell at the crux. This was what TGM called an * day. * = heavy required partying on Friday and Saturday, then numbing cold rock in the shade on New River Wall. For me the cold made this at 5.10b climb. Sport 1 5.10a
2006/10/15 Clear Creek People's Choice - P1 right side w/ TGM Sport 1 5.10a
2006/10/15 Clear Creek People's Choice -left side to the top w/ TGM Sport 2 5.10a 5.10b
2006/10/22 Golden Cliffs Nine To Five, w/ TGM. Sport 1 5.9
2006/10/22 Golden Cliffs Cat's Meow, w/ TGM. Sport 1 5.10a
2006/10/22 Golden Cliffs Twinkle Toes, w/ TGM Sport 1 5.11a
2006/10/22 Golden Cliffs Nouveau Reach, w/ TGM. This climb highlights my weaknesses: Thumbs up jams, thin finger jams, footwork in thin and hard cracks, and keeping my heel low when my toes are perched in a small dimple. I did not complete the crux sequence on this one. TMG's onsite lead was impressive, but at the expense of some pain and blood. Sport 1 5.11b
2006/11/05 Golden Cliffs This Aint Naturita Pilgrim w/ Belen Sport 1 5.9
2006/11/05 Golden Cliffs Brain Cloud w/ Belen Sport 1 5.9
2006/11/05 Golden Cliffs Unknown 5.8 w/ Belen Sport 1 5.8
2007/02/10 TGM's Home Gym V Easy bouldering session. Gym 3 v0+
2007/03/10 Golden Cliffs Unknown, Unknown, BM, Tootsie Roll w/ TGM Sport 4 5.9
2007/03/26 Clear Creek Pony Up and Cracker Jack /w Belen. After an afternoon rain storm, we had the whole crag to ourselves. Sport 2 5.9
2007/04/01 Boulder Canyon Boulder Slips: Edges & Ledges, Brand New Bosch, Party Time!, and Minutia w/ TGM. 65 degrees. Sport 3 5.9 5.9
2007/04/09 Golden Cliffs Pee on Dee, Windy Days, Retro-Crack w/ Belen Sport 3 5.9+
2007/04/14 Unaweep We went to Unaweep for 6 days of climbing. Two days of rain. One day of heavy wind. One night of obnoxious partiers. We left after 5 days. Probably a little too early in the season for this extended road trip. Unaweep has grrrrreat jab cracks. Climbs: Don Juan, Bandito, Beginner's Luck, and Fearless First w/ Belen. Belen slipped about 8 feet up Beginner's Luck and with the rope stretch and awkward fall she landed on her butt on a rock. "Luckily" she was un-injured. Trad 4 5.8+
2007/04/15 Unaweep Standard Route w/ Belen Trad 1 5.7
2007/04/16 Unaweep Sweet Sunday Serenade, classic!!!, w/ Belen Trad 2 5.8-
2007/04/18 Unaweep Welcoming Party and Mint Jam w/ Belen. At the crux of Mint Jam (top) I accidently kicked my #3 Camelot. It was too late to back-track. So, I dove into the offwidth crack with legs flying in the air. It was then that I remebered watching the party ahead of us with legs flying in the air just like me. It must happen often on this route. A great climb!!! Trad 2 5.8+
2007/04/28 Golden Cliffs Heidi Hi w/ Belen. We also practiced one pitch using the ascenders. trad 2 5.8 A0
2007/04/29 Turkey Perch Reefer Madness, Ragger Bagger, Gobblers Up, and Steppenwolf w/ TGM. Great day. Many other parties there. We had to rescue a dog that had tried to downclimb a 5.6 route on the cliff. He made it about 1/2 way, then got stuck on a ledge. His owner climbed down to secure the dog to a leash and webbing. Then, we hoisted the owner and dog back up the cliff. Trad 5 5.8 5.9
2007/05/11 Yosemite Five Open Books: Munginella, and Sunnyside Beach: Jamcrack w/ Belen. No crowds and perfect temps. Trad 4 5.7
2007/05/12 Yosemite Knob Hill: Anti Ego Crack, Sloth Wall, and Turkey Pie w/ Belen. AEC was a long pitch and Belen didn't tie when I was leading. When I pulled up the rope she was getting her shoes and she had to yell at the last minute for me to stop pulling. Then, she yelled for slack to tie in; but when I let out slack the rope just fed into the crack about 30' above her. Meanwhile, we couldn't hear each other over the sound of Cascade Falls. She solicited the help from another climber (Ben) who climbed up the crack enough to get enough of the tail of the rope to tie a figure 8. He then put a locker on the figure 8 and she tied into the locker with a long runner. The scene was total mayhem for sure. All three climbs are very good. Trad 3 5.7
2007/05/12 Yosemite Partied w/ Cydnie and Andreu
2007/05/13 Yosemite Church Bowl: Uncle Fanny and Church Bowl Lieback w/ Belen. I put my left side into the chimney on Uncle Fanny, which may have increased to thrashing factor by two grades. Belen put her right side in and easily cruised the chimney; but then had difficulty on the the flared crack section. Trad 2 5.8
2007/05/14 Yosemite Rest day. A helicopter and rescue truck were at the base of Church Bowl at 10am, not sure why. We drove to Glacier Point and I hiked down the Four Mile Trail. Beautiful views of Sentinel Rock while on the trail.
2007/05/15 Yosemite Manure Pile Buttress: After Seven w/ Belen. When we arrived at the base, I heard a scream on P1 of Nut Cracker, falling, another scream, and more falling. As soon as I scrambled over to NC the woman leader said to her partern, "I'm ok"; and I saw her hanging about 30ft up. Now, I understand where the term "I took a screamer" came from. A very disconcerting way to start our day. Except for a few soloists, we had the climb to ourselves. In the MPB parking lot we said hi to Beth and Tommy who were returning from El Cap (Mescalito). We finally caught up to Nick in the Curry Village parking lot after he just got off of the Leaning Tower with his friend Bill. Trad 4 5.8
2007/05/16 Yosemite Church Bowl: Bishop's Terrace w/ Belen. We climbed the first pitch to the platform with a tree to keep the belay in the shade. The better choice in cooler temps is to stay in the left side crack all the way and either set a belay at the 100' mark or do the climb in one long pitch (w/ a 60' rope). Supertopo said pro to 3.5". I brought my #4 and #4.5 and put them both to good use. Trad 2 5.8
2007/05/17 Yosemite Glacier Point Apron: The Grack Left w/ Belen. We started in the heat of the day and were going to climb the Grack Center, but it looked too hot and the shady eucalyptus tree at the first belay of the GL looked too enticing. The 2nd pitch of GL was a wild climb up an improbable looking dihedral. Trad 2 5.7
2007/05/28 Clear Creek Capitalist Crag w/ TGM: Vitamin-N 5.8+, Cheap Labor 5.10b, Lunch Money 5.9+, Hours For Dollars 5.10c (failed at crux) Sport 4 5.10b
2007/06/02 Clear Creek Little Eiger w/ Belen: Headline x 2, Bonehead. Sport 3 5.10a 5.10c
2007/06/09 Clear Creek Lower Capitalist Crag w/ Belen, Vitamin-N, Lunch Money. Sport 4 5.10a
2007/06/10 Boulder Canyon Avalon w/ TGM: Iron Maiden, The Tower (follow), Lust (follow), Dead Can Dance. Sport 4 5.9 5.10c
2007/06/10 Boulder Canyon Avalon w/ TGM: The Magician. Trad 1 5.9
2007/06/14 Clear Creek Little Eiger w/ TGM: Bush Gardens, Persistent Vegitative State, Herbal Essence. Sport 3 5.9 5.10b
2007/06/21 Clear Creek High Wire w/ TGM: Passing Lane, Dueces Wild, Nickles and Dimes (5.10a version). A great soltice evening (82 degrees). Sport 4 5.10a 5.10a
2007/08/09 Clear Creek Little Eiger /w TGM: Headline. Then, it became too crowed. So, we drove the River Wall. Sport 1 5.10a
2007/08/09 Clear Creek River Wall w/ TGM: River Mild & Bottom Side Down. Many people at High Wire. At one point, I counted 13 climbers on the rock at High Wire. Sport 2 5.10d
2007/08/13 Clear Creek Little Eiger w/ Belen: First Impressions and Herbal Essence. Sport 4 5.9+ 5.9+
2007/08/16 Golden Cliffs Practiced Jumaring. Aid 5 A0
2007/08/19 Boulder Canyon The Watermark w/ Belen: Glennevere, Twin Peaks, Minas Tireth. Sport 4 5.10a 5.10a
2007/08/20 Clear Creek Little Eiger w/ Belen, "Is Our Children Learning?". I climbed this 70m route with a 60m rope. Never a good plan. Sport 2 5.9+ 5.9+
2007/08/26 Clear Creek Wall of the 90s, w/ TGM Hey Good Looking, 5.10b??, Left Over Stuff Sport 3 5.10b
2007/09/06 Clear Creek Little Eiger w/ Billy, "Is Our Children Learning". Took two ropes, which got twisted while Billy was rappelling. Major rats nest. First Impressions. Sport 2 5.9+
2007/09/13 Golden Cliffs Stoney Middleton and Fast Boat to China w/ Billy. Fast Boat is super! Trad 2 5.8
2007/09/15 Yosemite Royal Arches, w/ Dietmar, 10 hours, I lead all pitches Trad 15 5.7
2007/09/16 Yosemite Snake Dike w/ Billy, I lead all pitches Trad 8 5.7
2007/09/17 Yosemite The Grack w/ Dietmar, the last 30 feet will definitely get your attention while you climb above an RP and green Alien. Trad 3 5.6
2007/09/25 Golden Cliffs Alan's Seam w/ Belen Sport 2 5.10a 5.10a
2007/10/11 Clear Creek Little Eiger w/ Billy, Headline & First Impressions. Sport 2 5.10a
2007/10/12 Moab 30 Seconds Over Potash & Slab Route. Attempted Steel Your Face and fell clipping 1st bolt several times. Trad 2 5.9-
2007/10/13 Moab Ice Cream Parlor: 5.8 sport route, Wolverine (Crack #1), Crack #2(TR). Trad 3 5.8 5.8+
2007/10/26 Shelf Road Concentrated Weirdness, B/C, From Russia with Love, Primal Scream w/ Belen Sport 5 5.10a 5.8+
2007/10/27 Tanner Dome Confluence slab: 5.6 (Flee) and 5.7 (Penny Lane). Great Big Wall: 5.9 slab right of Midlife Crisis arete, 5.10 (Midlife Crisis) Sport 4 5.10
2007/10/28 Cotopaxi Unknown 5.9 or 5.10a 2.4 miles west of Cotopaxi Sport 1 5.10a
2007/11/03 Golden Cliffs Mind Mantle Arete (best quality is to start and stay on the arete proper) and Brain Cloud w/ Belen Sport 3 5.10b 5.10b
2007/11/09 Shelf Road Spiney Ridge - Damn Right I've Got the Moves 5.9, 20th Century Man 5.10a/b, Toxxxic Entertainment 5.10a w/ TGM Sport 3 5.10a/b
2007/11/09 Shelf Road Spiney Ridge - Access All Areas w/ TGM, had to be hauled through the crux. Sport 1 5.10d
2007/11/09 Shelf Road Cactus Cliff - Three-Quarter Ton w/ TGM, had to hang at crux. TGM fell at the crux which was getting to the anchors. Sport 1 5.10c/d
2007/11/10 Shelf Road Menses Prow - Period Epic 5.9, Dumb Waiter 5.10a, Pueblo Gringos 5.10b w/ TGM Sport 3 5.10a 5.10b
2007/11/10 Shelf Road Menses Prow - Turbo Charged Intercooled Meat Machine, had to hang multiple times at crux, next time look for secret hold on left arete. The Big Chill, fell at crux once. w/ TGM Sport 2 5.10b 5.10c
2007/12/23 RocknJamin2 w/ Lucas. Onsited a 5.9 on the big roof, but had to hang on a 5.10a. Definetly not in gym shape. Last gym visit was 8/1/05. Gym 5 5.9 5.10a
2008/01/27 Flatirons Attempted to climb the 3rd Flatiron standard route w/ Belen, but it had snowed the day before and big ice chunks, some the size of coffee tables were coming down the face as the day heated to 60 degrees. So, we and two other patires had to bag it. Trad 0
2008/03/29 Flatirons Zig Zag on the 1st w/ Lucas. Super route, 60 degrees early, steady 60-75mph wind at the top, had hold on tight, throwing the rappel lines was a challege, Lucas's first multi pitch. Trad 6 5.7
2008/03/29 Golden Cliffs Lucas and I drove the Table for some sport after our Boulder morning. Attempted Brain Cloud w/ Lucas, but the wind was crazy and you had to hold on tight or get blown off the cliff. It was so windy the quckdraws blew sideways. I backed off after the 2nd clip. Sport 1 5.9
2008/03/30 Eldorado 32 degree snowy day. Went to Eldo to practice aid w/ Belen and Lucas. Climbed Srinagar to Kashmir, we all practiced leading and cleaning. Aid 2 C1 C1
2008/05/10 Pecos NM Ooze Move w/ Lucas, it was 45 degrees at 8am and the biggest challenge was numb hands on the cold rock Sport 1 5.9
2008/05/10 Pecos NM Double Roof Dilemma w/ Lucas (TR) Sport 1 5.10b
2008/05/10 Pecos NM Faith Based Promotion w/ Lucas (TR attempt) Sport 1 5.10d
2008/05/10 Pecos NM unknown 5.8 (right side of cliff) Sport 1 5.8
2008/05/19 Clear Creek First Impressions w/ Belen Sport 1 5.9+
2008/05/19 Clear Creek Headline w/ Belen Sport 1 5.10a
2008/05/19 Clear Creek Conehead (TR attempt), I hung all over this, but did make the moves Sport 1 5.11b
2008/06/02 Clear Creek Is Our Children Learning? w/ Belen Sport 1 5.10a
2008/06/02 Clear Creek Footloose w/ Belen, took a great fall at the crux. While Belen was looking down for 1/2 a second to rest her neck, I sailed past two bolts - fun! Sport 1 5.10b
2008/06/08 Clear Creek TGM and I went to an area called "Left Wire". I lead a 5.9 that started on the right side of an arete, then crossed left over the arete. TGM lead a 5.9+ through major choss. Several holds had broken off and now the climb seems to be solid 5.11a. He persevered through several falls getting past the crux. Following, I was unable to cleanly negotiate the crux and employed french technique. TGM then lead a long beautiful overhanging 5.10b. This climb induces a progressive pump. Super! I followed and fell moving to the anchor and fell/swung about 15 feet out from the cliff into space. It felt like a leader fall and wasn't totally sure if it was going to stop. Fun! Sport 3 5.9 5.10b
2008/06/13 Eldorado Our five year anniversary! P1 of the Bastille Crack. This was my first time up this classic. I had a lot of anxiety for many years about this "easy" 5.7 1st pitch. Several foot holds at the crux are complete glass from traffic, but overall it protects well and the finger locks in the crack are positive. After the crux traverse, the hand jams are perfect. Belen did a super job through the crux. Trad 1 5.7
2008/06/30 Clear Creek Left Wire 5.7 and 5.10a x2 w/ Belen Sport 3 5.10a
2008/07/04 Las Conchas NM Pie In Your Eye 5.6, Cud For LuLu 5.8, Green Thumb 5.8, Drive By Shooting 5.10b (hung once) w/ Lucas Sport 4 5.10b
2008/07/04 White Rock Crags Pejos Route, 99 Red Balloons, Once Were Warriors, Princess Buttercup, Unknown Face Route 5.8-, The Thunderbird Crack 5.9 in the Pit w/ Lucas. All very high quality easy climbs. The Pit is cool on a hot day. The Main Wall at White Rock Crags (The Overlook) has southern exposure (hot in summer) Sport 6 5.9
2008/09/02 Clear Creek Poker Face 5.9, Bypass 5.10b with Brian P. and friends. Sport 2 5.10b
2008/09/27 Flatirons Bear Canyon to Fern Canyon. Hike
2008/09/28 Boulder Canyon The Riviera – Au Natural 5.8, Abandonment 5.8, New Lease on Life 5.10a (attempted fell at crux, then too tired) w/ Belen Trad 3 5.8
2008/10/04 Flatirons Fern Canyon to Slab Rock w/ Morgan. Hike
2008/10/17 Boulder Canyon Cozy Hang w/ Belen, 2 pitches, set a hanging belay, my foot slipped after setting it up, it held perfectly! Trad 2 5.7
2008/10/24 Moab Bike trip to Slick Rock, flew with Billy, camped with Todd, Rodney, his son-in-law, Corky, Julie and her friends. 75Knot winds coming back over the divide in the Cessna. Bike
2008/10/25 Moab Everyone rappelled down 150' cliff, then I Trd a 5.10 Sport 1 5.1
2008/11/02 Boulder Canyon Cob Rock North Face Center w/ belen,marginal red cam before p1 belay,p2 hand crack is sweet,bad p2 belay setup to catch b's fall on p2 Trad 2 5.7
2008/11/07 Shelf Road Flew down w/ TGM in his Piper Navajo – Cooool Day – Cactus Cliff: Lead: The Raven 5.9, Half Breed 5.10a. Follow: Politically Incorrect 5.10c (one hang after doing crux wrong), Funkdemental 5.11b (two hangs) w/ TGM and Scott Sport 4 5.11b
2008/11/08 Flatirons Hiked Bear Canyon to Green Mountain to Gregory Amphitheater to Mesa Trail Hike
2008/11/15 Flatirons Hiked Skunk Canyon to NCAR w/ Belen Hike
2008/11/22 Flatirons Hiked Bear Canyon to Fern Canyon to Bear Peak. Hike
2008/11/29 Flatirons Hike NCAR to Mallory Cave to Dinosaur Ridge to Bowling Alley. Hike
2008/11/29 Flatirons Dinosaur Ridge / South Ridge / Dum to the first false summit via 5.2 jam crack solo via Mallory Cave. The downclimb was exciting in Vibram soles on the face. Trad 1 5.2
2008/12/06 Flatirons Hiked Skunk Canyon to Woods Quarry to Royal Arch Trail to Kohler trail. Hike
2008/12/13 Flatirons Hike Skunk Canyon to Dinosaur Ridge to Mallory Cave Hike
2008/12/13 Flatirons Dinosaur Ridge via North Ridge solo up 5.2 crack via Skunk Canyon in with 8” of snow. Trad 1 5.2
2009/03/01 Golden Cliffs Cat's Meow, This Bone's for You (lots of loose rock), Not (attempted the hard way straight up through the 2nd bold several times), The Perfect 10 (don't cheat using the 5.8 crack, just use the arete), Little Green Apples, w/ TGM. Super first day out for the new year. Sport 5 5.10a
2009/03/14 Boulder Canyon Bihedral Area, Sun Spot, Hold the Line w/ Belen Trad 2 5.9
2009/03/16 Boulder Canyon I, Robot w/ Belen Trad 1 5.7
2009/03/30 Gear Record Black Diamond C4 #2 Gold Cam
2009/04/07 Golden Cliffs Offline x2 (nextime lead using only crack!) & Sidelines w/ Belen Sport 3 5.10a
2009/04/10 Boulder Canyon Bihedral Area, Trick or Treat, Hold the Line, Rhodian Shores (slipped once past the crux) w/ Belen Sport 3 5.10b
2009/04/24 Golden Cliffs D's Dry Dream - w/ Arlen Sport 3 5.10a
2009/04/24 Golden Cliffs Startled - w/ Arlen Sport 1 5.10a
2009/04/24 Golden Cliffs X It - w/ Arlen Sport 1 5.9
2009/04/26 Golden Cliffs Fast Boat to China - w/ TGM, then X3 jumar practice Trad 4 5.8
2009/05/14 Clear Creek Gondolier Arete - w/ Pete Sport 1 5.10a
2009/05/14 Clear Creek Levada - w/ Pete Sport 1 5.8
2009/05/14 Clear Creek Route Canal - w/ Pete Trad 1 5.9
2009/05/15 Eldorado March of Dimes - Eric linked P2 of Werk Supp w/ P3 of MOD. I was pumped! Had to hang once. Trad 2 5.10c
2009/05/15 Eldorado Werk Supp - w/ Eric, he combined P2 w/ March of Dimes. I only lead 5.8 finish of the Bastille. Trad 2 5.9
2009/05/17 Lumpy Fat City Crack - w/ Nick. I lead P1, I bombed on the roof Trad 3 5.10c
2009/05/17 Lumpy J-Crack - w/ Nick, He lead the 11 finish, I tried Trad 4 5.9
2009/05/29 Clear Creek Bonehead - w/ Rick, hung before crux to survey, missed clip on bolt after crux, relax! Sport 1 5.10c
2009/05/29 Clear Creek Neo-Quasi Bugaloo - w/ Rick Sport 1 5.10a
2009/05/29 Clear Creek Not One Of Us - Follow P1 w/ Rick, hung all over crux, reached final jug once Sport 1 5.11
2009/05/29 Clear Creek Resume - w/ Rick Sport 1 5.9
2009/05/30 Eldorado Reggae - w/ Belen, super Trad 1 5.8
2009/05/30 Eldorado West Overhang - P1 w/ Belen, then Reggae Trad 1 5.7
2009/06/01 Boulder Canyon Classic Finger Crack - I followed w/ Eric Trad 1 5.9
2009/06/01 Boulder Canyon Monster Woman - w/ Eric, I lead P1, chockstone mistake! Trad 2 5.9
2009/06/01 Boulder Canyon Tough Situation - I lead w/ Eric, hung several times before success Trad 1 5.9
2009/06/07 Eldorado West Side aka West Chimney - P1, downclimbed in light rain, storm hit at base Trad 1 5.7
2009/06/12 Eldorado Long John Wall - Lead P2/P4 w/ Jay. Did Break on Through P1 Trad 4 5.8
2009/06/12 Eldorado Lunar Avenue - Followed Jay Trad 1 5.8
2009/06/12 Eldorado Mesca-Line - Followed Jay Trad 1 5.7
2009/06/12 Eldorado Positively Fourth Street - Lead w/ Jay, did 5.9 version pump-o-matic Trad 1 5.9
2009/06/12 Eldorado Sister Morphine - Lead w/ Jay, we thought we were doing drug abuse Trad 1 5.9
2009/06/15 Boulder Canyon Bosch Blanket Bingo - Lead w/ Brian, 5.9 version Sport 1 5.9
2009/06/15 Boulder Canyon Chouette - Lead w/ Brian right after rainstorm with wet rock to add spice. Trad 1 5.6
2009/06/15 Boulder Canyon Devin's Dihedral - w/ Brian, lead after rain storm, a little slick Trad 1 5.9
2009/06/15 Boulder Canyon Topless Etiquette - Lead w/ Brian Sport 1 5.8
2009/06/19 Eldorado Rastaman Roof - Attempted lead w/ Jay, too tired after full day of climbing... Ha Trad 2 5.9
2009/06/19 Eldorado Ruper - Did in 4 pitches w/ Jay, I lead P2 traverse, and P4. Perfect day/temps Trad 4 5.8
Date Location Route Gym, Blder, Sport, Trad # Pitches Lead Follow
Randy Belen
Total Outdoor Pitches 944 550
Total Trad Pitches 478 187
Total Trad Leads 298
Total Outdoor Sport Pitches 466 363
Total Outdoor Sport Leads 281
Total Gym Pitches 461 384
Outdoor Pitches Lead in 2001 21
Outdoor Pitches Lead in 2002 96
Outdoor Pitches Lead in 2003 54
Outdoor Pitches Lead in 2004 114
Outdoor Pitches Lead in 2005 59
Outdoor Pitches Lead in 2006 68
Outdoor Pitches Lead in 2007 113
Outdoor Pitches Lead in 2008 41
Outdoor Pitches Lead in 2009 30